I love when mockups work! I just mocked up my court gown bodice, basing it off the underbodice from my robe a la turque from last year. All I changed in making the pattern was to take in the lower back about an inch, and elongate the front point about 3". And then in the mockup, all I had to do was take about 3/4" out of the armseye in the back, and shorten the center front point about 1/2". Which means now it's time to cut into the silk! Just in time, of course, to see Kendra's post about putting hers off till next year...
I made a mid-Victorian mantle today. Other than the tassel for the hood, 11" of fur trim provided by theladysarah, and a new spool of thread, it was an entirely stash-sourced project. It is made of ivory wool, and lined with black silk habotai (both left over from last year's riding habit), which I quilted with some random batting I found in my stash. The mantle is trimmed with the fur left over from my Ravenclaw bustle, and the purchased tassel. I like it! Pictures to come after this weekend.
I also finished trimming my bonnet with a whole bunch of flowers. I'm so excited for my Victorian birthday weekend!
After one bent hand needle, one broken hand needle, and holes in two fingers and one fingernail, my bonnet is done! I still have to figure out where I want to place flowers/feathers, but all the buckram/fabric/rest of trimming is complete. And once again I'm reminded why I don't like to make hats from scratch.
On the other hand, I love trimming hats! I also finished the hat for my Ravenclaw bustle. I started with a straw craft hat, reshaped the crown, removed 5+" of brim, wired the brim, and bound it with bias tape. Then I applied navy lace and cream vintage lace to the brim, plus a gathered puff trim of the plaid from the dress to the base of the crown. I finished it off with several feathers and a flower. I'll post pics after this weekend.
To do list before thurs night:
-Move hook and eye on hoop petticoat
-Finish trimming bonnet
-make wrapper to wear with ballgown
-hem bf's trousers?
-sew on bf's epaulettes
-figure out what to do about bf's baldric/belt situation
-help bf find suspenders
I know it's silly, but I love having a deadline. Since my last post, I have taken in the neckline on the chemise, and made the drawers from the same simplicity pattern (I learned though, and made them one size smaller). I also took in the frock coat that arrived for my boyfriend, and sewed on the stripes on his pants (thank goodness my Quattro can sew horizontally!) And today, I started a bonnet, which so far has broken three needles and destroyed my ironing board cover (RIP).
At this point, I have to finish the bonnet, sew on the stripes on his sleeves and his epaulets, and patch a tear in my Ravenclaw dress (which I have turned into a normal bustle gown). I also would like to make a hat for the Ravenclaw and a wrapper for my ballgown. I think that's everything, though, so that's not too bad.
All the trim is on the sleeves, and I started the binding on the neckline. I really want to finish all the binding tomorrow, and figure out how to bustle up the overskirt. Then on Wed, I can try everything on, mark for hooks and eyes and sew them, figure out the shirt collar thing, and sew the patch on (since it's due to arrive Wed). I can do this!
I've been sewing a ton over the last two days, which means at this point, thus is all I have left to do:
-figure out how to get a fake collared shirt look at the neck of my bodice
-bind the bodice edges
-hook and eye on skirt and overskirt waistbands
-figure out how exactly to bustle up overskirt
-make the waterfall pleat section. The fabrics have been cut for it, and I figured out how to lay out my pillowcase pieces of velvet so it will show in the appropriate places. Now I just have to sew it all together, and hope that it looks the same in reality as it does in my mind.
Here's a blurry in progress pic from my camera, if it actually works this time:
I sewed all day today, and got a fair amount done. The bodice now has sleeves (I had no sleevils!), and the overskirt is done except for the waistband and figuring out how I'm bustling it. But it's all trimmed up and everything, too, with the pleated wool, rabbit fur, and metallic braid. And the underskirt is about 2/3 together. Tomorrow, I want to completely finish the underskirt and overskirt.
I did take a couple pictures today, so I may upload them tomorrow if I get enough done.
Despite work and trivia night tonight, I did get a little work done on my Ravenclaw bustle. I sewed on all my buttons to the bodice, and I cut out the fashion fabric pieces for the skirt (there's going to be additional pieces where the fashion fabric attaches up to the waistband, since the fabric wasn't wide enough). I'd love to get sleeves done tomorrow, but I'm going to a bingo and karaoke night, so I don't know that that will happen.
In other news, I also did confetti applique embroidery on a kitchen towel at work today, as a sample for a new embroidery class I'm co-teaching at the end of the month. It came out really nicely, so I'll try to post a pic later.
Yesterday, I drafted out the mockup for my Ravenclaw bustle bodice, based on my old Jane bodice. After struggling with how to take a pattern from a bodice with darts, I wound up winging it and just hoping it would work. And it almost did! So this evening, I cut out all the interlining and outer pieces for the bodice, and flatlined them. Of course, my original goal for today was to basically finish the bodice, but clearly that didn't happen. In fact, I wound up not getting home till 5 pm.
This morning, I had another portrait sitting session, wearing my Regency gown, and then I decided to explore into all the little antique and boutique shops where the art studio is. It was cute, and I almost bought a parasol. Then on the way home, I also hit a garage sale (almost bought a $25 fur cost, but I'm trying to be good), and a thrift store (where I bought a gloriously tacky Halloween sweater). Then I finally made it home and got to work.
I'm starting to get worried, though. I need this gown done by the 25th, and so far I have pretty much nothing!
The bustle petticoat is almost done! All it needs is a waistband and a hem. The rolled hem on the bottom two ruffles came out so nicely that I'm tempted to do it on the rest of the hem, too. (If I have another chance to do it at work, that is, since the Babylock Imagine does a way better rolled hem than my Brother serger.)
I love the look of the petticoat - it's so fluffy! I'll try to post pics as soon as possible, but I'm headed down to Disneyland on Wed-Fri, so it may not happen for a little while.
Finished the necklace, the briar rose skirt, and the gala bow today. That means I still have to rehem the pet en l'air petticoat and try on the pet, and make the modesty panel for the gala gown.
I did quite a but on the waist cincher, too. All it needs are 12 eyelets, cutting the bones (8 cable ties) to size, and binding the top. Plus adding the suspenders. But I'm really worried that it's going to look waaay too costumey. I decided to do a slightly taller waist cincher than my original plan, because what I had wanted to do would look really unflattering with my ridiculously large rib cage... :( So we'll have to see how much I actually like this look...
Halfway done with my skirt hem. I still need to figure out the closures for the waist, though, since judging by the lack of comments to my last post, no one had any ideas...
So here's what I have left to do before I fly down there on Monday:
Finish gala gown hem
Gala gown waistband
Gala gown ribbon bow at waist, and jewels on sleeves
Add lace to sleeves or chemise sleeves
Make Briar Rose skirt
Make Briar Rose cincher/suspenders
Take in blouse for Briar Rose
Re-hem petticoat for pet en l'air
Make coral necklace for regency gown
Re-style old hedgehog wig.
And try everything on to make sure it's fitting well/pack it all up. Yikes!
The binding is almost halfway done. I finished the back side of all the binding I had done by yesterday.
Still haven't tried it on though... Maybe tomorrow?
And I won't have my normal days off anymore, because I've been transferred to a different location. On the plus side, it's only about a 5-10 min commute, but I don't get Mondays-Tuesdays off anymore (it's thurs-Fri now). Which will take some going used to, since I've had Mondays off for as long as I've lived in Seattle!
I finished my eyelets! And I started on the tabs. I was hoping I'd be able to do one side in the machine, but there's just too many bones. Plus I think inside corners are easier to do by hand than on the machine... So I fray-checked all my edges, and I already have the fashion fabric side of one tab done!
It's looking like rehearsal tomorrow might be a short one, and if so, I'm really hoping to be able to try the bodice on. There's really no point in binding all my tabs if it doesn't fit!
Why is this bodice so hard? I feel like it's taking forever. This morning, I cut into my silk taffeta. (I re-patterned the bodice pieces based on how I took most of them in last week.) I only had a little bit of weirdness between the inner layers and outer layers, mostly involving the neckline (which luckily will be covered in quite a bit of lace).
But now the bodice is giving me such a headache! I tried to use my cheat method so I wouldn't have to bind all the tabs (putting right sides together and then turning). Of course, I want thinking that that meant I would have to open up the tops of all the boning channels to be able to turn. And I'm getting weird giant wrinkles at the inside points of the tabs. So now I'm thinking maybe I really should just undo all that (I only turned half of it so far) and just binge it like I'm sure I should have done in the first place... Ugh.
I'll figure that part out in the morning, and then it's on to a bazillion eyelets. Which now that I'm realizing it, will be near to impossible to do on my machine with all that stupid boning! (not to mention I've already broken two needles)
The Snow White front is looking much more promising. The applique/embroidery is done, the grosgrain in the waistband is complete, and all that's left it's to sew on four tiny sets of snaps. I also bought a new needlenose, so I clamped the belt buckle down, and just need to make a few eyelets on the belt. And make the headband, and if I have time, do the velvet bolero. But there's not too much left!
I'll try to post pics soon.
Apparently I was not thinking ahead tonight. I sewed in lacing strips into the boned bodice, and tried it on. Unfortunately, it was too big, particularly in the underbust and side bust areas, so it was doing nothing for my shape. So I went and took in a bunch of little pinches in between several of the pieces of boning. And it fit! (or just about, and I know the one place where I have to continue taking the bodice in.
The problem is, I have basically now created a whole bunch more seam lines. Seam lines that didn't exist in the original pattern or in any gowns of the period. I think a few of the pieces are still flat enough that I can get by with an adjusted pattern shape, but I did a couple tiny darts in the side front pieces! I did take a few pictures, so I'll try to post those tomorrow.
This might be really interesting... And I'm still sooo nervous to cut into that silk!
On the Snow White front, I digitized my applique today using the 5D software, and I hope to have it stitched out by the end of the weekend.
All the boning channels are done, and the bones are in, so that means tomorrow I can start on the silk. I'm going to do the back panels first, so that I can do my eyelets and make sure everything fits (please oh please!)
But since I've never worked with silk taffeta before, do I need to prewash it in any way before I start the cutting?
I finished the front panel of the stomacher today. It's not much, but at least it's something! I just wish I could pick up the boning sooner and finish the rest of it. Edit: stupid livejournal mobile thing ate my picture. I tried, I really did. Isn't there an easy way to get a picture from my phone to LJ? And now the html is all weird, so I'll bet this post is going to look wonky... *grumble*
Stomachers are boned, aren't they?
We performed at the 5th Ave Theatre tonight for Gondoliers, which was really cool! That's the theatre that does pre-Broadway shows, big professional musicals, and touring shows. I would love so much to be in a show with them.
But since I was busy with that tonight, as I figured, I didn't get much sewing done. I bound the top of the back pleats, and hand-sewed the top 3" of the pleats down, but that's all I managed. I don't know that I'll do much better tomorrow, since I have rehearsal after work. All I really need to do are the cuffs and stomacher!
I fixed the sleevil. This morning I fiddled a bunch more with my mockup. The best solution was actually just to turn the sleevehead several inches, and I took a little bit more off the length of the head as well. And success!
So I now have two sleeves attached. In doing all this, though, I also found that the distance across my shoulders is even narrower in back than I realized, so I had to redo my back pleats, to take out another two inches. I also stitched down all my robings.
It looks like I'll have enough fabric for cuffs, though one of them will have to be pieced (which I also did with the sleeves). I've decided to leave the robings plain. I should have just enough fabric left to do a few fake bows across the stomacher.
It's back to work tomorrow, though, plus we have a special performance of some of the songs from Gondoliers, so I'll be lucky if I get any sewing done at all. We'll see!