theladyrebecca: (Default)
[personal profile] theladyrebecca
I don't know how a week winds up going by between my posts. But anyway, I've had a bit more sewing time and mojo this week! Over the weekend, I figured out how the overskirt needs to be arranged to drape correctly, and then I patterned the overskirt and skirt. I freaked out a little at first, because the way I wanted to pattern the overskirt wound up taking more than 10 yards, which is all I have! So I re-patterned it, and hopefully it will still look full enough in the back.

I cut everything out Sunday evening, and flatlined and sewed together all the skirt panels on Monday. I started serging the edges of the overskirt yesterday, but still have a couple pieces left to go. The overskirt will be bag-lined instead of flat-lined. 

But what I'm trying to figure out now is if I should put both the skirt and overskirt on the same waistband. The description from the Manchester museum seems to say that it is all one skirt, plus a belt that has a bow over the closure, but it's pretty much impossible to tell anything from the pictures. My thoughts are - if I do two separate skirts, on the plus side, I can wear the skirt without the overskirt if I ever feel like it. But also, the weight of the overskirt might make its band ride up in front, and having two waistbands and a belt would add a lot of bulk. But if I do it all on one, it's going to be kind of a pain to add the skirt trimming with all that volume on the back. 

Any opinions?

I'll have to decide by Friday at the latest, I think, unless the organdy for my petticoat arrives by then, and I decide to work on that first. I really want to get at least this skirt/overskirt out of the way (aka, on a waistband so I can hang it or put it on my dressform), and then I think I'll go back to the bodice for the plaid dress. 

Date: 2019-01-31 03:31 am (UTC)
hharris: (Default)
From: [personal profile] hharris
What a dress. I can't really tell what's going on there. But what you are calling the overskirt looks to me like a train. (A train with some giant bows over it). I guess the train could be made separate, and removable. But with a short bodice, I like to anchor my bodice to the skirt with hooks. And then a removable train would be in the way.
I might consider sewing the train into the skirt and use a lighter fabric for the back of the skirt where it won't show. I don't know. It would be interesting to know how it's done. However you do it, that's a lot of fabric to wrangle!

Date: 2019-01-31 12:33 pm (UTC)
atherleisure: (Default)
From: [personal profile] atherleisure
If you decide to go the route of two separate waistbands, you could always baste the two together to keep from having troubles with the overskirt shifting.

Date: 2019-02-02 07:00 pm (UTC)
sewtimely: (Default)
From: [personal profile] sewtimely
The extant gown I have with an overskirt has both the over and under on the same waistband. Shockingly sloppy construction too, but the bodice is longer. the waistband was a long strip, made seperately. Both the underskirt and skirt were simply turned under with the raw edges hanging down. Top stitches visible on the overskirt, as it wasn't even turned inside out.

Also, the gown had french tacks all over the place to keep things neat.

I don't think bustle era women, if having a dress made, though of things as separates beyond day and evening bodices. We'd see a lot fewer intact gowns if they were made separately.

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