So in lieu of sewing content, here's a few pictures of the deck dress that I took the other day.
So in lieu of sewing content, here's a few pictures of the deck dress that I took the other day.
I was playing around with my hair yesterday to try to get the right look (I swear that simple-looking Edwardian hair is somehow one of the hardest hairstyles for me to achieve), and decided to take some pictures while wearing the full outfit. Of course, at that point, I still hadn't finished all of the closures, and I have since also tweaked the pickup in the back in the attempt to get a little more hem length, so these pictures are not ideal. They're also not edited yet, so while I will be posting them soon, I'm really just teasing them now. If you want to see the pictures I've already shared, you can click the link above for my instagram.
But in any case, I plan to put it all on again today and somehow figure out where I need to mark the hem length in the back so that I can get the whole thing finished tonight. I also have an etsy order for a tiny Cinderella dress, so that needs to be done tonight, too. After that, I have a Victorian commission I'll be starting work on as soon as I get the contract back, and that will likely be followed by another commission, so I'm not sure when exactly I'll be getting back to the bustle gown. Still, the commissions are good, since they will help me pay for Europe next year!
Then I hooped up the sleeve ends and the collar for embroidery, and set about putting together my embroidery patterns to the right fit and look. I was really hoping to get both cuffs in at once, but my hoop was about 1" of width short, so I had to do two hoopings. I left the first one (one sleeve and collar) going while I went to sleep, since it was a 63 minute stitch-out, and then this morning I flipped the design over and had the machine do the other cuff while I got ready for work. So now the embroidery is all done for this project!
I do have rehearsal tonight, but I'm hoping to maybe have a little time to work on it between work and rehearsal. I'd like to get the collar attached to the kimono sleeve portion and start on binding all the edges of that. It's getting close, though. I should almost certainly have the whole project done by Friday night.
Oh, and also, my satin shoes arrived (the parisxox ones that everyone has been buying on etsy). They're definitely tight in the toes, to the point where you can kind of see the shape of my foot in the shoe. (That said, in the pictures of Kate Winslet, you can see the shape of her foot in the shoes as well). Also, the weird diagonal side seam makes my foot look crazy wide. So I don't know if I'm going to keep them. I think I'm going to try wearing them around the house for a little bit and see if they stretch out. Otherwise, I'll have to find alternatives somewhere, and so far I'm coming up empty, since the only other dyeable pumps I've found are pretty clunky looking, and $55-60.
So far no luck on finding the appropriate buckle, though. If anyone has any leads to a 2.5" tall (interior measurement) oval buckle, either antique gold colored and textured or not (since I can always paint/add texture), please let me know! I've been all over ebay and aliexpress with no luck.
I'm in the middle of embroidering the white kimono sleeve portion right now - I finished the part across the shoulders and the back of the neck. Next up is the ends of the sleeves. Then I have to do a test of the collar, embroider the collar and attach it to the bodice, then bind the edges, add lace, and attach the yellow to the kimono sleeve part (luckily, I've already marked where that goes, so it shouldn't be too bad.
I still have the entire underblouse to do, though, including a mockup. I hope to knock out the mockup today, while finishing the kimono sleeve embroidery.
Here are some pictures. The first two were from before I figured out the fit of the bodice, and the second two were from afterwards. I tried to match pleats at the waist of the bodice to the pleats in the skirt, but it was wrinkling totally wrong. So I wound up doing no pleats in the back of the bodice, and taking a dart at where the side seam would be, and that fixed the fit issue.
Like seriously, I'm not even sure how that skirt works with the only seam being the center front, but that's just what it was. I still haven't concluded if the original was one piece from the top of the yellow to the hem. I'm leaning towards it having been two pieces, because it's a dogleg closure up the front, and that seems like it would be easier to do if the bodice was a separate piece from the skirt.
So anyway, my version is going to have a seam at the waist, as well as a curved seam up either side, because my fabric is 55" including the selvage. Then again, I suppose I shouldn't be stressing, since although the dress appears as a butter yellow on screen, it is actually a gold fabric with a leaf spray pattern. And mine is taffeta instead of satin. I did, however, find that I have an embroidery pattern that will be pretty darn close to the embroidery on the kimono sleeves. I just have to figure out what fabric to make the sleeves out of, and I'm really not sure what it's supposed to be... (any ideas?)
Also, I realized I forgot to post about this weekend - I took part in a fashion show on Saturday afternoon, with some of the other ladies from the Puget Sound Historical Costumers Guild. It was entertainment during a tea hosted by the Kent Historical Society, so we were representing the years around the time when the house it was held in was built. I wore my old 1903 dress, and it made me realize that I really want to make an s-bend corset and a new outfit to go over it. You can definitely tell this is one of my older outfits (I made it in summer 2011, I think just before my first CoCo, and it is lot's of poly chiffon and obviously serged edges).
Except, I have no idea where/if I have any more of the purple chiffon. I looked in as many places as I could think of, and nothing. The extra bit of gold chiffon that I had originally found last week turns out to be the sash, not the fabric for the sleeves.
So... yeah... I don't think this costume is happening. Which is annoying, because it means it will remain a ufo forever! Maybe I'll find it while I'm packing? Or of course, it could still be in CA. Because I have made two moves since I last worked on this. Not a good sign.
In other sewing news, we've decided to use my Ravenclaw bustle for my caroling costume, sans bustle. So tonight, I took up the skirt towards the top, so that the seam won't show from underneath the apron drape. I just did a giant tuck with a 3.5 stitch length, so it will be easy to take down later. I think I took it up about 7.5" in the cb! I guess that's what a bustle will do for you.
However, my only other option would be finishing the 1912 dinner dress that I started in 2012, and has since been languishing as a UFO. It's actually quite a bit more complete than I had remembered it to be, though I don't at all know what the fit is like. I also knew a lot less about sewing then, and at the very least, the serged chiffon hems on two of the three skirt layers will have to be improved. Otherwise, though, from a quick visual review, it looks like it's mostly just missing the sleeve/neckline area, and a waistband. I guess I'll find out more once I can try it on, but that won't happen until Monday at the earliest.
I also have to hem my black plaid 1850s skirt. I'll be wearing it for caroling, but not with a hoop, and it's currently hemmed to go over my big eliptical. But again, that will have to wait for Monday, since I have rehearsal tonight, and am seeing Hunger Games tomorrow, and will be in CA for a wedding this weekend.
Oh, and speaking of movies, I saw Brooklyn yesterday, and highly recommend it. The story and acting are both great, and the costumes are absolutely beautiful. I want her whole wardrobe.
However, I do want to share this drawing with you. This is from the portrait sitting I did a couple weeks ago, drawn in 10 mins by Tara Larsen Chang. I wore my 1903 gown from a few years ago, with the giant hat.
My limited class was on Saturday morning. I wish it was a longer class, because we had only just started cutting out the fabric by the time we had to go, but 1860s and Still Handsewn was still a good class. It was taught by Janea Whitacre and Emma Cross, who are both great teachers. We got to examine an 1860s bodice, did a handsewing sampler with all the techniques we need to complete the dress, and then we draped muslins on each other to get the right fit. I wound up starting mine on the plane home, but besides cutting out all the bodice and sleeve pieces, all I've accomplished is about 1.5 ft of a sleeve seam. I really hope to stick with the handsewing, though.
I also took another class from Janea later in the day - The Good Milliner. I had no idea that millinery encompassed so much! It was also great watching Abby do Emma's hair up with actual period methods. Certainly easier than Kendra's more modern take, but I have to admit, I like look of the modern version better.
And then it was time for the gala! This was the first time I had actually worn the full wig with the full court gown, but it went fine at first. Kendra had to help me secure the wig, because I was having so much trouble pinning it.But then I headed down to the red carpet, took some pictures, and our group of 10 headed over to Maggianos for what has become our gala-night tradition. Dinner was delicious (and cheap!), and then we went back to the gala. I didn't last for very long - I think my stays shifted up while I was seated at dinner, and between that and the giant wig on my head, I think I stayed for about 30 mins before changing. Next year, I plan to make something more comfortable. But anyway, here's some pictures!
The court gown ladies, Elizabeth, me, and Katherine
I feel like a missed half the people at the gala since I was there such a short time, but here are a few lovely ones I did manage to catch on camera:
Amanda and Samantha's 30s gowns Emily's gorgeous mid-Victorian
bellamissella's amazing Elsa fairegoddess's awesome bustle gown
I think I've gotten out of my sewing slump. My mom's jacket is just about done - all it needs is the binding hand-sewn down around the edges. And I've been working on the petticoat for my Ravenclaw bustle gown. Soooo many ruffles! I finished cutting out the pieces to be ruffled tonight, and it's over 10 yds. Tomorrow I hope to gather everything up and attach (I've already marked everything out, so maybe it will even go smoothly?) I just need to figure out if I want to do an actual hem on my bottom two ruffles (I ran out of selvage), or take the easy way out and just roll hem with the serger. Any opinions? - I'm leaning towards the latter, since just those two ruffles are over 4.5 yds.
( Pictures under the cut. )
My goals for 2012 were:
-a black knee length skirt. I didn't make one, but I bought one!
-the 1869 Pink Candy Striped Early Bustle Gown. Completed!
-Titanic gown. I started one, but I never finished it. The skirt is done, and the bodice is partially done. Now it's languishing as a ufo.
-Teens-era corset. Completed!
-Ballgown bodice for my black and gold plaid Dickens dress. Completed!
-Late Victorian jacket for my mom. She decided she wanted an Edwardian one instead. I've fitted the mockup to her, but haven't actually started the final jacket.
-Late Victorian bathing suit. Completed!
-18th c Robe a la Turque. Not for 2012, but I've finally started it!
-18th c quilted petticoat. Completed!
-1780s-style red wool Riding Habit. Started, but not yet finished.
-18th c red wool cloak. Nope, not yet.
-a Victorian waistcoat for my dad for Dickens. Nope, but I'll do it this year!
-18th c mitts. Nope.
-Regency corset. I didn't get into the CosCol class last year. We'll see if I can manage one on my own before this year's CosCol.
-Regency day dress. Nope.
-Regency overgown. Nope.
Overall, not too bad.
I start training at the Space Needle tomorrow, and we have another preview for As You Like It tomorrow evening, so I'm not sure how much I'll actually get done. I know CosCol is still two months away, but it feels like it's fast approaching!
And on that note, does anyone know if the addition of the Thurs pool party at CosCol means there are going to be two pool parties this year? Or is the Sunday one not happening anymore?
But the rest of it is done! I think I want to try making a bandeau for my hair out of the salmon flannel, but I'm not sure I'll do that right away. But I love it! It's so cute, really comfy, and was so easy to do. I'll be wearing it at CosCol - either at that Thurs night pool party they added, or at the Sunday pool party. (that's still happening, right?)
And in other news, I tried dyeing the bodice to be a brighter pink. I don't like it. And it didn't dye evenly, either. But while I was at Joanns buying the dye, I saw a pink and white striped cotton that I think I like and had the aforethought to put it on hold, so tomorrow I'm going back with swatches, and will hopefully pick it up. Somehow I'll have to incorporate a bit of the seersucker into the bodice or apron drape, though, because I really don't feel like taking off the seersucker ruffle on the skirt.
Oh, and in really other news, I saw Bel Ami yesterday at the Seattle International Film Festival. The movie overall was good, though not something that I feel really has to be seen in theatres. Robert Pattinson annoyed me for most of the movie - he was really pretty one-dimensional, and didn't come into himself until the end. The costumes were very nice, though! I was slightly confused as to the mixing of 80s bustles for day dresses with mostly 90s evening gowns, but it was supposed to take place in 1890, so it didn't bother me too much. The standouts for me were a red bustle dress that Christina Ricci wore, and a blue bustle that Uma Thurman wore (the one that's been in the screen shots).
Here's a pic as it stands now (or almost, since I have tapered the shorts in by 2")
I still have to hem the shorts, hem the sleeves, bind the neckline, and make the sash, but otherwise I'm done.
I'm also trying to decide if I should use a bias strip of the wool around the neckline, or just use bias tape. I'm leaning towards the latter because it will be easier, but then the first option will carry the wool from top to bottom. Any opinions?
I also had the idea that I might dye all of the seersucker for the candy bustle to a brighter pink. I think I'm going to test it out tomorrow. Because honestly, for some reason my light pink seersucker is totally reading as lavender!