Ariel Petticoat and CADDing

[theladyrebecca]

I've been working on Ariel for the last few days. I finished the petticoat yesterday, which is a taffeta base, heavily gathered crinoline around the hem, and a layer of ruffled organza from above the knee to the hem.

Here's a pic:



Today, I started on the skirt. It consists of four layers - satin, sequin mesh, light turquoise organza, and a cutaway layer of dark turquoise organza. Each layer is a full circle (other than the top cutaway one). So far, all of the layers are cut out, and the top layer is sewn together and hemmed, which was such a pain!

This is what it looks like with all the layers draped on top of each other.


I'm also having a bit of CADD, which I find often happens when I'm working on commissions. This one is due to an event coming up in the end of May (which I don't even know if I can go to yet). There's a local living history fort that is having a celebration for Queen Victoria's birthday, set in the 1850s, and it seemed like the perfect chance for a sheer dress. And then of course I mentioned how I wish I could make it in time for Port Townsend (in three weeks), and enabler vanessa_lynne said I should/could do it. I don't know if she's right or not, but I did decide on the design and cut out the skirt panels tonight. I'm using the same sheer dead dino fabric I bought half a bolt of at the fabric district in 2012 and used on my 1780s dress. And even after cutting out the skirt, I have soooo much left!

One question, though - it seems like some sheer dresses have a sort of attached camisole/liner, some have a full bodice lining, and some don't have any liner at all. Is this true? Any rhyme or reason to ones that do vs ones that don't?

Comments

[nuranar.livejournal.com]

Yes, there are different lining styles for sheers. Most sheers (1850s and 1860s) have what is called a half-high lining. It's like an ordinary flat lining, except that the neckline is cut lower, just enough to to cover the chemise neckline. Often the lining closes with hooks and eyes, while the sheer is separate at the front; sometimes it only hooks at the waist and neck. Usually there are short lining sleeves to cover the sleeves of the chemise as well.

Some other sheers have lining only at a few points, particularly at the underarm/side seams. I believe the Peachtree sheer dress pattern is like this. And there are sheers without lining at all. The sheers with only partial lining or no lining are worn with what we would call a corset cover; I've also seen the term "underbody." It wasn't a common garment at the time, except with sheers.

The lining is probably intended mostly to strengthen the sheer fabric. Some of the sheers are very delicate material, and stitching - especially at stress points like the underarms - could shred the fabric. So a lining or partial lining can strengthen those points.

Hope that helps! I love sheers - SO pretty. :)

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Thanks! That was super helpful. Do you know if the shirred-front dresses would have likely had the half-high lining, too? That's the kind of lining I'm leaning towards, and the bodice I intend to make.

[nuranar.livejournal.com]

I'm not aware of any particular difference by style of dress, so go for it! If anything, that style may benefit from a lining to keep the gathers over the front of the bust instead of falling off to the side. Do you have Costume in Detail? At least one of the dresses there shows a line of stitching from the waist to the shoulder to control the gathers.

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Thanks! I'll look through the book - I hadn't consulted it yet.

[chocolatepot.livejournal.com]

I don't think there's any system, or at least I haven't heard of one - the amount of lining seems to be down to preference. It does seem to be more common to have some amount of bodice lining than to have no lining, though.

[chocolatepot.livejournal.com]

Or what Ginger said!

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Thanks! :)

[vanessa-lynne.livejournal.com]

Through Red Bull, all things are possible.

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

I don't think I've ever actually had a red bull, to be honest.

[mandie-rw.livejournal.com]

For 1850s I would probably go for the half-high lining that Ginger mentioned - it's more common (at least in the '60s! I'm not as familiar with the '50s) and it's easiest, I think. You see a lot of unlined sheers early in the century; I think the proportion of half-lined tends to get higher as time goes on.

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Do you know if half-high is common no matter what type of bodice it is? I'm planned on doing a shirred-front bodice.

[mandie-rw.livejournal.com]

I don't know of any rule as regards lining: type of bodice, so I would think it would be fine for a shirred.

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Great! :)

[starlightmasque.livejournal.com]

Nice work! That is going to look spectacular!

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Thanks!

[rum-inspector.livejournal.com]

that color is so juicy...
(sorry i got nothing clever to contribute i just love turquoise)

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Thanks! I have a feeling I might wind up getting a little turquoised-out after all of this!