Wool Question

[theladyrebecca]

I'm finally starting on the riding habit! I cut out the fabric for the skirt tonight, but I realised that the wool I have is really very drapey, and doesn't have that nice crisp hand that I'm used to with most 18th c fabrics. Should I be flat-lining it? That's what I plan to do with the bodice, but I've never flat-lined a skirt before.

I did find one example of a riding habit with what looks like a pretty drapey skirt: http://pinterest.com/pin/234539093065197027/, as well as one extant skirt that looks like it was a fairly drapey fabric that may have been flatlined (or something weird has been done to them hem, which I don't like): http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O74100/riding-habit-unknown/ But the rest of all the habits I've seen have had the typical fuller skirt, which is what I was going for.

Comments

[the-aristocat.livejournal.com]

I personally like the drapeyness of wool. It flows beautifully when it's worn. So for my riding habit I used the wool as is. And you can achieve a lot of fullness with a quilted petticoat. (These pictures are pretty bad, but in real life the skirt was very full and I'm not wearing anything else than the quilted petticoat under the lightweight wool petticoat: http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2011/04/18th-century-winter-clothing-2006.html
It looks a lot different with a plain linen petticoat: http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2011/04/18th-century-working-womens-clothing.html ) So I'd add more petticoats if it feels too limp instead of flatlining.

[bauhausfrau.livejournal.com]

I agree, I think the drape looks so lovely and the petticoats can make up for any stiffness that's lacking.

[jennylafleur.livejournal.com]

Ditto! You don't want your habit to be too stiff. If you need more "umph" do it with your underpetticoats.

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Thanks for the advice, ladies! I pleated up the wool and tried it on Antoinette over the bum pad and quilted petticoat and it does fall very nicely. I guess I had nothing to worry about!