theladyrebecca: (Default)

The teagown is nearly complete. On Tuesday, I did the whole hem, and yesterday I finished all the velvet ribbon trim. So now it's down to a little hand finishing (adding 4 sets of hooks and bars on the yoke for closures, re-sewing the back watteau pleats by hand, and tacking down the ends of all the velvet ribbon bits inside), and the dreaded welt pockets. If I have the energy after all the hand-sewing tonight, I hope to do at least one practice pocket, and see how it goes. 

And I've gone back to wanting to do the riding habit next, I think. I mean, I don't have to do it the super tailored way. I've done a little more research on riding habits, and though I don't know proper construction, I think I can at least figure the skirt shape out. I'll probably give myself a sewing break over the weekend, and then start tackling that on Monday. 

theladyrebecca: (Default)
The teagown is starting to really look like something! Over the weekend, did all the buttons/buttonholes, and I drafted the sleeves and got them attached (puffed sleeves are such a joy - mockup was almost perfect on the first try!). And then yesterday, the final trim option arrived, and naturally the one that worked best was the one I received last Wednesday (the 3/16" medium blue velvet ribbon). *sigh* Anyway, I started putting the trim on - I have one sleeve's worth completely done (and that sleeve hemmed), plus the collar is done, and I have 1 of the 3 rows on the yoke done. I also pressed and pinned the hem into place. 

So I'm hoping that today and tomorrow I can basically finish everything besides the pockets. They are supposed to be some kind of welt pocket, but I'm kind of afraid of welt pockets. So I'm going to have to do some experimenting/practicing there, and if it really comes down to it, I can always do patch pockets instead. 

I'd like to have it completely finished by Thursday night, but we shall see. My friend Emily and I have decided that, since our birthdays are four days apart in a few weeks, we're going to pick up a tea spread from our favorite tearoom and have a birthday tea, wearing teagowns. I'm looking forward to that! 

Then it's on to the riding habit, though tbh, I'm still feeling a little scared of that project. Mostly because I don't know actual tailoring, and also, after watching Abby's video this week on examining her antique riding habit, I'm just like :o. Like, I have no idea how to do all of that. But also, the likelihood that I'm ever going to wear this on an actual horse is pretty much nil, so in that case, do I just make it look like the movie costume in whatever manner I need to, ignoring how actual riding habits were constructed? I really don't want to put this project off any longer. I'm also not sure how I should pre-treat the wool. Normally, I just throw wool through the washer/dryer, so it can get a bit fluffier/more like thicker flannel. But this one is already the texture I want it to be, so I'm not sure what to do that will make the texture stay the same. 

I have to admit, I kind of just want to move on to my 1830s dress, but I feel like this project has made itself into a mental mountain of sorts, and I really need to not let it do that. 
theladyrebecca: (Default)
This month is apparently my costume event month, since every weekend has/will involve costumes. (CoCo, then the Ren Faire, then the NW Colonial Festival, plus next week is Snoqualmie Railroad Days, followed by a costume contest at Disney Trivia). 

So anyway, on Saturday I went to the NW Colonial Festival. Despite the pouring rain that started right after we arrived, it was wonderful! (and the rain did mostly clear up). It's such a gorgeous location, on the grounds of an inn designed to look like Mount Vernon, with views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca on one side, and the Olympic mountains on the other. I haven't done 18th c in ages, so I was actually glad for the colder, wetter weather, because it meant I could wear my riding habit again. I wore it over my quilted petticoat, and I did not regret that decision. I did get warm when the sun peaked out, but it kept me so nice and dry when it was raining - none of the rain got through to me at all! Because of the rain, I decided not to wear the velvet 1780s-style hat I made to go with it originally, and instead, decided to wire the brim of a black wool hat I had in the stash, and make a tricorn. It would have looked much better with feathers, but not in the rain, so I decorated it with a simple ribbon cockade. It's the least favorite part of my outfit, but I think it looked okay. 

At the event, there was a decent sized encampment (way bigger than when I was there in 2015!), presentations and some items for sale from the DAR (I bought a nice cap for $15), some other presentations from reenactors, a tea on the sun porch of the inn, and a battle on the reproduction Lexington and Concord bridge. 

Anyway, here's what you want - pictures! I'll have the rest of the pictures up on Facebook within the next few days. Naturally, I took a ton. 






Steamcon

Nov. 6th, 2013 11:36 pm
theladyrebecca: (Default)
Steamcon was the weekend before last, and despite my work schedule, I was able to attend Friday and Saturday evening. Unfortunately, either all the panels took place Saturday morning or Sunday, or there just weren't any panels this year, because I wasn't able to attend any! I did, however, attend plenty of dancing, got a better understanding of how to play Whist, and danced some more.

On Friday, I went to the Welcome talk, then learned some Ballroom basics (which wound up being the exact same class I took last year), and bought a new felt hat blank. For dinner, I walked through the mall and the Disney store in costume (that always gets some fun looks), and after, went to a class on the cross-step waltz. That was nice, since that's one of the ones that has always thrown me off - for some reason, in the past, I've found it more difficult than normal waltzing. Most of the rest of the things going on that night involved loud and obnoxious music, so after waltzing, I settled down to a couple hours of Whist. I've only played once before, but now I really think I'm getting the hang of it. It's a fun game! For Friday, I wore my new Ravenclaw bustle - some pictures from the day are below, but I will have a proper write-up about it, with much better pictures.
Pictures from Friday )



Pictures of Saturday )


Overall, despite the dancing, it was definitely not worth the cost of the con. I think I just don't have enough interest in Steampunk (or enough time off on the weekend to spend at a con), so I probably wouldn't buy a weekend pass again. Then again, I vaguely remember saying that after last year, too...
theladyrebecca: (Default)
Friday dawned bright and early, since I had a class at 9am. My first class was 18th c Criminal Couture, taught by Emma Cross, which was very fascinating! I wore my red wool riding habit, and met up (at various times) with [livejournal.com profile] bauhausfrau, [livejournal.com profile] girliegirl32786, [livejournal.com profile] jenthompson, and [livejournal.com profile] the_aristocat, who were all also decked out in riding habits and redingotes.





                                              Red!                                                                                           Blue!



After our first meetup, I attended [livejournal.com profile] harmanhay's "Starting a Small Costuming Business" class, had lunch with [livejournal.com profile] theladysarah and [livejournal.com profile] zoccolaro, checked out the costume exhibition, and eventually attended Loren and Bunny's "We Like Big Hats" class. And then I got ready for the Ice Cream Social! I wore my Robe a la Turque, which was nice, since it meant I hardly had to change at all from the afternoon. Unfortunately, for some reason pretty much all of my pictures from the Ice Cream Social came out really fuzzy, but I loved seeing all the different costumes! Some of my favorites were the Disney Villains, Kendra and Merja's Maja dresses, [livejournal.com profile] vanessa_lynne's amazing pink 18th c frothyness, Emma's 18th c tinkerbell, and Jen's Ikat open robe.

After the Ice Cream Social (and a brief and fairly disappointing turn round the Marketplace), it was time for the Pink Princess Party! I had more fun there this year than in year's past. It's a great time to get to actually slow down and chat with people I often don't otherwise see. I wore my fairytale toile dress, and felt like a 5-yr old going to a birthday party. Can't you tell?


I'll be back with the rest of the recaps soon!
theladyrebecca: (Default)
Last Sunday, we had a lovely outing to go see the Gainsborough Exhibit at the Seattle Art Museum, preceded by lunch at Library Bistro, and naturally we dressed to match. Here are some pictures, and more can be found in my Seattle Costuming Events Facebook Album. I wore my riding habit, since it hasn't really had a chance to play yet. Lauren and Debra and I found a fun photo location in a 16th c Italian wood-paneled room. The Gainsborough exhibit was nice, albeit small, and most of the rest of the museum seemed to contain a lot of modern art. Overall, the museum was quite small, so I wasn't all that impressed, but it was fun to hang out with friends in costume!


*Last pic taken by Mari Bergstresser Roll*
theladyrebecca: (Default)
Granted, it might have been 1.5 weeks late, but I did finish my UFO project for the Historical Sew Fortnightly. My riding habit!

The waistcoat is a false front, which I pinned to my stays, but I think it works really well. And there's still a little tacking I'd like to do to the lining on the collar and cuffs. I'm also still debating about adding the fur trim to the hem of the jacket, like in the inspiration portrait. But other than that, it's done!

And here's some visual proof:

The original portrait inspiration, and my "long pose" (three 20-min sessions of this pose)

More Pictures and Challenge Details under the cut )
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I finally took those pictures of the riding habit that I promised you guys! It's wrinkling weirdly, and I don't know why, and I have no clue how to fix it, but otherwise I think I like it. I wore it with my American Duchess Kensingtons, which I painted red and paired with my vintage shoe buckles. (And yes, that's my fichu pretending to be a waistcoat).


Since taking the pictures this morning, I've finished stitching the lining to the front of the bodice on one side, and added buttonholes to the front. I still have the other side of the lining to stitch down, a little tacking on the cuffs, and tacking so that the collar doesn't roll over, plus all the buttons. And if I ever find fur, the hem of the jacket will be trimmed with fur.

I'm still thinking I might be able to wear this for my portrait sitting on Friday morning. If so, my plan is to make a false waistcoat front to wear with it, since there is definitely no time to make a real one before then. I would also need to make the matching hat. If I can't finish all that, then I'll just wear the robe a la turque.

In other news, I am once again hating my big feet. This time, it's because I bought these beautiful antique carriage boots from ebay, knowing they were going to be too small to wear, but not knowing that I would soooo badly want to wear them because they're in such beautiful condition! I think I'm going to have to try to reproduce them. I also bought a gorgeous vintage fur muff!



I also realized I never actually posted those 50s lipstick tutorial pictures I did a couple weeks ago. So here's a few of those:

theladyrebecca: (Default)
I'm kind of loving the pannier-along. If everything I made was in the -along style, maybe I'd actually keep up with my work. I sewed all my boning channels, and bound the slit for the pocket. (Though a six inch pocket slit seems teeny to me - do I just have huge hands?) That said, I haven't done a stitch of work on my riding habit since I last posted, except to buy more velvet for the cuffs. I've decided to go with the poly velvet for all the outer layers - not only does that mean it will match the color, but the poly doesn't crush like the cotton velveteen I had does. And I kind of love that!

On the other hand, I can't find fur anywhere. The original portrait I'm basing it on has about 4" wide fur trim all along the skirting of the jacket. The only wide enough fur I found was terrible fake stuff at Joanns that wound up fuzzing sooo much by the time I even got it to the cutting counter, that I'm now going to have to lint-roll my entire jacket. Needless to say, I didn't buy it. If anyone knows of a resource for either a nice fake fur or a real fur that doesn't break the bank, which is (or can be cut to) 4" by about 84" long, in black, that won't absolutely break the bank (trying to stay around $25 for it), please please please let me know! All my usual sources (ebay/etsy/fabric stores/google) have failed me.

I'm hoping maybe I'll get a chance to try it on and take pictures tomorrow. If not, it will for sure happen Saturday evening, since I'll be putting my stays on anyway to go out to dinner after the SITU event is over. The event was waaayy too pricy for me, so I'm looking forward to a late dinner in costume with friends instead. I didn't wind up going in costume to the Austen-based improv show that I saw tonight, which was good, I think. The show itself was fantastically hilarious, though - the actors did a terrific job!
theladyrebecca: (Default)
Today, I sewed in the habit lining (mostly by hand!), and set the sleeves. It's a good thing the collar (which I attached last night) is so ginormous, since those sleeves seem like they have waaayy too many gathers in the sleeve head for the 18th c. On the other hand, they fit perfectly, which is nice. Tomorrow, I want to try the whole thing on and take some pictures, and make sure the jacket fits before adding the buttons and buttonholes. If all that goes smoothly, then I might start on the sleeve trimmings as well. I also have to figure out a way to actually get the top of the collar pressed flat, so it doesn't start to turn and show the lining... Any tips?

I've also started the pannier-along for the Historical Sew Fortnightly, so I want to keep up with that, too. I've already cut out all my pieces. I'm making them out of the same pink fabric that I used for the stays.

I also finalized my sketch for the Snow White-inspired 50s dress for Disneyland. Is anyone else planning to join [livejournal.com profile] theladysarah and me there on the day or two before CosCol?

Here's the sketch. I'm going to use a Vintage Vogue pattern, with pin tucks up the front and a separate yoke/dolman sleeve. The yoke will be red, like the bolero. The bolero is going to be out of red velvet with a white collar lining. I plan to embroider the apple and gems at work. :
theladyrebecca: (Default)
Since I've now completed the customary year in review, that means it's time to post the goals for 2013!

1. Finish the riding habit. It's at least about half-way done at this point. The skirts of the bodice need to be attached, I need to figure out how to do the huge collar, the sleeves, and all the trimming.

2.
The Robe a la Turque. The petticoat is done. I'm currently working on the gown - the bodice and skirt are cut out.

3. 18th c red cloak. I already have the fabric.

4. 17th c gown. Based on this portrait. I'm in the process of buying fabric - I'm actually springing for silk taffeta!

5. Regency corset. I wanted to take the class at CosCol last year but was waitlisted. Maybe I'll get in this year?

6. Regency day dress. I bought swiss dot last year. I'm just waiting to make the corset first.

7. Regency overgown. Again, I already have the fabric.

8. Edwardian jacket for my mom. The mockup is done - I just need to actually make the jacket now.

9. Victorian waistcoat for my dad for Dickens next year.

10. 1950s cotton-printed dress to wear to Disneyland before CosCol.

11. Victorian button boots. I will probably make two pairs. I'm going to try making it from canvas first, and if that works out, then I'll spring for leather.

12. Possibly a pet en lair or caraco.

I think that's enough to be getting on with.
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I don't feel like I was all that productive this year, probably since the early candy bustle wound up taking up soooo much of my time, but I did make a fair bit leading up to CosCol.

Pictures under the cut. )



My goals for 2012 were:
-a black knee length skirt. I didn't make one, but I bought one!
-the 1869 Pink Candy Striped Early Bustle Gown. Completed!
-Titanic gown. I started one, but I never finished it. The skirt is done, and the bodice is partially done. Now it's languishing as a ufo.
-Teens-era corset. Completed!
-Ballgown bodice for my black and gold plaid Dickens dress. Completed!
-Late Victorian jacket for my mom. She decided she wanted an Edwardian one instead. I've fitted the mockup to her, but haven't actually started the final jacket.
-Late Victorian bathing suit. Completed!
-18th c Robe a la Turque. Not for 2012, but I've finally started it!
-18th c quilted petticoat. Completed!
-1780s-style red wool Riding Habit. Started, but not yet finished.
-18th c red wool cloak. Nope, not yet.
-a Victorian waistcoat for my dad for Dickens. Nope, but I'll do it this year!
-18th c mitts. Nope.
-Regency corset. I didn't get into the CosCol class last year. We'll see if I can manage one on my own before this year's CosCol.
-Regency day dress. Nope.
-Regency overgown. Nope.

Overall, not too bad.
theladyrebecca: (Default)
My silk habotai came yesterday for the riding habit lining, so I went back to working on it. Yesterday, I cut out the pieces for the habit skirts and mock-pleated them on to the bodice, to figure out if I wanted it more habit-like or caraco-like. Habit won out. :) And then today, I cut out the silk for the all the linings (minus the sleeves), and attached most of the lining to the skirts (that silk is slippery!). I just have to hand-sew the lining down to the sides of the skirts, and then that can be pleated back up and attached to the bodice. I'm part-way through serging the bodice lining now, and then that will be sewn together and put in the bodice. I really appreciate the nice red color - it's almost like another Christmas decoration! (We finished that up this weekend, too.)

While I was procrastinating on some actual sewing today, too, I also painted my new American Duchess shoes. I'm saving one pair for later, but I knew I wanted one pair to be red, so I pre-treated the leather, and painted on about 2.5 coats of Angelus leather paint - first, just plain red, and then I mixed the red with a touch of black acrylic paint, since the first color was coming out way too bright. I like the way they look now, so when I next have a little time, I can do the finisher, and they'll be done!

I also pre-washed the wool for the waistcoat, so I can get started on that next. Or sleeves. I haven't decided which yet. And I cut out the pieces for my mom's Edwardian jacket. She thankfully agreed to a mock-up for Christmas, instead of the full thing, so it shouldn't be too big of a deal to redraft the Butterick pattern to her measurements and specifications. I have to do it soon, though, since I leave for home a week from Thursday, and I work every single day till then.
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I think I want to line the habit. And possibly the waistcoat, too. (The waistcoat is ivory worsted wool on the outside, and will be flatlined with cotton twill, like the habit bodice.) I will also be using the same fabrics as the riding habit to make an 18th c-infused modern winter jacket.


The question is, do I use habotai, crepe de chine, charmeuse, or something entirely different?
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I decided to flat-line the bodice. Though after pressing all the seams open, I'm seriously debating about lining it as well. I think the next step will be tackling the sleevil, which I'm sure will occur with this project because of those long fitted 1780's sleeves. Or I might just put those off for now, and do the waistcoat instead.

No pictures yet, but I have the stays and bodice back on my pillow form. I wish they would fit on Antoinette!


Posted via m.livejournal.com.

theladyrebecca: (Default)
To line, or flat-line? I really want to flat-line it, because, frankly, I don't care if you can see the serging and seams on the inside of the bodice, and that will make it easier to (hopefully) take in in the future. I know the period thing to do would be to line it, though. And I don't know how to go about doing the historical sleeve setting method (which I have decided to do with this project) without having a lining in which to sandwich the sleeve heads.

Any advice?



Oh, and I've decided to cut the skirts separately. Mostly because I didn't feel like waiting around for more responses to my last post before cutting out the fabric. And it would make the patterning process longer. :)
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I love when things fit. I made the mock-up for the zone-front riding habit bodice, and it fits! I based the front piece off of the floral robe a l'anglaise from last year, modified to a zone front and to a neckline that will cover my stays straps, and taken in about 1.5" since that one is too big now. I made the back like a quarter back (I think that's the term, right?) with four pieces, roughly equaling the pieces from the old bodice. My mock-up was almost perfect - all I had to do was take in about 3/4" around the shoulder-blades in the center back seam. I am going to wind up tweaking the front neckline a tiny bit, since it's looking more bodice-y than habit-y.


Pictures under the cut )



I've been trying to decide whether to have the skirts of the habit bodice cut in one with the bodice pieces, or to make separate skirts. At this point, I'm leaning towards the latter, but I'm having real problems finding evidence that leads more to one way or the other in portraits/extant, etc. Just as a reminder, this is the portrait I'm basing my habit off of: http://www.nationalmuseum.se/Global/Pressbilder/Stolthet_och_fordom/HR/SF_421_02.jpg. It looks like her skirts are cut in one, but I also kind of doubt that hers is a zone front. I wish I could see the front!


Does anyone have any suggestions one way or the other for which type of skirts would make more sense with a 1780s zone-front riding habit?

Success!

Nov. 30th, 2012 12:22 am
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I sewed the two skirt panels together, and did all my pleats at the waist for the riding habit skirt. And then I put it on Antoinette over the bum pad and quilted petticoat. Success! The wool falls nicely, and the underthings fill it out quite well. I'm probably going to have to wait to get to Joanns and get tapes for the waist, unless I want to spend more money and get them at the more expensive fabric store next to my work. I'll try to get some pics up by the end of the weekend, but I work and have shows tomorrow and Saturday, which doesn't leave much time for sewing.

Speaking of which, though, have I mentioned lately how much I am loving my new job? In case I haven't, it's wonderful! I work at a sewing and vac store/repair place, and in the 1.5 months that I've been there, I have already learned soo much. Which means I'm getting better at selling things, too, which leads to more commission for me! Now I just have to control my spending and stop dreaming about owning one of the big Brother embroidery machines. :)

Oh, and in other news, the stockings I ordered from Sock Dreams got here already! I'm going to have to order more now. The ones I got fit nicely, and the red color is great, (I just wish they were clocked!) though I think I'm going to be in need of garters. I love the free shipping, too!
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I'm finally starting on the riding habit! I cut out the fabric for the skirt tonight, but I realised that the wool I have is really very drapey, and doesn't have that nice crisp hand that I'm used to with most 18th c fabrics. Should I be flat-lining it? That's what I plan to do with the bodice, but I've never flat-lined a skirt before.

I did find one example of a riding habit with what looks like a pretty drapey skirt: http://pinterest.com/pin/234539093065197027/, as well as one extant skirt that looks like it was a fairly drapey fabric that may have been flatlined (or something weird has been done to them hem, which I don't like): http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O74100/riding-habit-unknown/ But the rest of all the habits I've seen have had the typical fuller skirt, which is what I was going for.

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