Diary of a Costumer

The teagown is starting to really look like something! Over the weekend, did all the buttons/buttonholes, and I drafted the sleeves and got them attached (puffed sleeves are such a joy - mockup was almost perfect on the first try!). And then yesterday, the final trim option arrived, and naturally the one that worked best was the one I received last Wednesday (the 3/16" medium blue velvet ribbon). *sigh* Anyway, I started putting the trim on - I have one sleeve's worth completely done (and that sleeve hemmed), plus the collar is done, and I have 1 of the 3 rows on the yoke done. I also pressed and pinned the hem into place. 

So I'm hoping that today and tomorrow I can basically finish everything besides the pockets. They are supposed to be some kind of welt pocket, but I'm kind of afraid of welt pockets. So I'm going to have to do some experimenting/practicing there, and if it really comes down to it, I can always do patch pockets instead. 

I'd like to have it completely finished by Thursday night, but we shall see. My friend Emily and I have decided that, since our birthdays are four days apart in a few weeks, we're going to pick up a tea spread from our favorite tearoom and have a birthday tea, wearing teagowns. I'm looking forward to that! 

Then it's on to the riding habit, though tbh, I'm still feeling a little scared of that project. Mostly because I don't know actual tailoring, and also, after watching Abby's video this week on examining her antique riding habit, I'm just like :o. Like, I have no idea how to do all of that. But also, the likelihood that I'm ever going to wear this on an actual horse is pretty much nil, so in that case, do I just make it look like the movie costume in whatever manner I need to, ignoring how actual riding habits were constructed? I really don't want to put this project off any longer. I'm also not sure how I should pre-treat the wool. Normally, I just throw wool through the washer/dryer, so it can get a bit fluffier/more like thicker flannel. But this one is already the texture I want it to be, so I'm not sure what to do that will make the texture stay the same. 

I have to admit, I kind of just want to move on to my 1830s dress, but I feel like this project has made itself into a mental mountain of sorts, and I really need to not let it do that. 

Steamcon was the weekend before last, and despite my work schedule, I was able to attend Friday and Saturday evening. Unfortunately, either all the panels took place Saturday morning or Sunday, or there just weren't any panels this year, because I wasn't able to attend any! I did, however, attend plenty of dancing, got a better understanding of how to play Whist, and danced some more.

On Friday, I went to the Welcome talk, then learned some Ballroom basics (which wound up being the exact same class I took last year), and bought a new felt hat blank. For dinner, I walked through the mall and the Disney store in costume (that always gets some fun looks), and after, went to a class on the cross-step waltz. That was nice, since that's one of the ones that has always thrown me off - for some reason, in the past, I've found it more difficult than normal waltzing. Most of the rest of the things going on that night involved loud and obnoxious music, so after waltzing, I settled down to a couple hours of Whist. I've only played once before, but now I really think I'm getting the hang of it. It's a fun game! For Friday, I wore my new Ravenclaw bustle - some pictures from the day are below, but I will have a proper write-up about it, with much better pictures.
( Pictures from Friday )



( Pictures of Saturday )


Overall, despite the dancing, it was definitely not worth the cost of the con. I think I just don't have enough interest in Steampunk (or enough time off on the weekend to spend at a con), so I probably wouldn't buy a weekend pass again. Then again, I vaguely remember saying that after last year, too...

Last Sunday, we had a lovely outing to go see the Gainsborough Exhibit at the Seattle Art Museum, preceded by lunch at Library Bistro, and naturally we dressed to match. Here are some pictures, and more can be found in my Seattle Costuming Events Facebook Album. I wore my riding habit, since it hasn't really had a chance to play yet. Lauren and Debra and I found a fun photo location in a 16th c Italian wood-paneled room. The Gainsborough exhibit was nice, albeit small, and most of the rest of the museum seemed to contain a lot of modern art. Overall, the museum was quite small, so I wasn't all that impressed, but it was fun to hang out with friends in costume!


*Last pic taken by Mari Bergstresser Roll*

I finally took those pictures of the riding habit that I promised you guys! It's wrinkling weirdly, and I don't know why, and I have no clue how to fix it, but otherwise I think I like it. I wore it with my American Duchess Kensingtons, which I painted red and paired with my vintage shoe buckles. (And yes, that's my fichu pretending to be a waistcoat).


Since taking the pictures this morning, I've finished stitching the lining to the front of the bodice on one side, and added buttonholes to the front. I still have the other side of the lining to stitch down, a little tacking on the cuffs, and tacking so that the collar doesn't roll over, plus all the buttons. And if I ever find fur, the hem of the jacket will be trimmed with fur.

I'm still thinking I might be able to wear this for my portrait sitting on Friday morning. If so, my plan is to make a false waistcoat front to wear with it, since there is definitely no time to make a real one before then. I would also need to make the matching hat. If I can't finish all that, then I'll just wear the robe a la turque.

In other news, I am once again hating my big feet. This time, it's because I bought these beautiful antique carriage boots from ebay, knowing they were going to be too small to wear, but not knowing that I would soooo badly want to wear them because they're in such beautiful condition! I think I'm going to have to try to reproduce them. I also bought a gorgeous vintage fur muff!



I also realized I never actually posted those 50s lipstick tutorial pictures I did a couple weeks ago. So here's a few of those:

Today, I sewed in the habit lining (mostly by hand!), and set the sleeves. It's a good thing the collar (which I attached last night) is so ginormous, since those sleeves seem like they have waaayy too many gathers in the sleeve head for the 18th c. On the other hand, they fit perfectly, which is nice. Tomorrow, I want to try the whole thing on and take some pictures, and make sure the jacket fits before adding the buttons and buttonholes. If all that goes smoothly, then I might start on the sleeve trimmings as well. I also have to figure out a way to actually get the top of the collar pressed flat, so it doesn't start to turn and show the lining... Any tips?

I've also started the pannier-along for the Historical Sew Fortnightly, so I want to keep up with that, too. I've already cut out all my pieces. I'm making them out of the same pink fabric that I used for the stays.

I also finalized my sketch for the Snow White-inspired 50s dress for Disneyland. Is anyone else planning to join theladysarah and me there on the day or two before CosCol?

Here's the sketch. I'm going to use a Vintage Vogue pattern, with pin tucks up the front and a separate yoke/dolman sleeve. The yoke will be red, like the bolero. The bolero is going to be out of red velvet with a white collar lining. I plan to embroider the apple and gems at work. :

I don't feel like I was all that productive this year, probably since the early candy bustle wound up taking up soooo much of my time, but I did make a fair bit leading up to CosCol.

( Pictures under the cut. )



My goals for 2012 were:
-a black knee length skirt. I didn't make one, but I bought one!
-the 1869 Pink Candy Striped Early Bustle Gown. Completed!
-Titanic gown. I started one, but I never finished it. The skirt is done, and the bodice is partially done. Now it's languishing as a ufo.
-Teens-era corset. Completed!
-Ballgown bodice for my black and gold plaid Dickens dress. Completed!
-Late Victorian jacket for my mom. She decided she wanted an Edwardian one instead. I've fitted the mockup to her, but haven't actually started the final jacket.
-Late Victorian bathing suit. Completed!
-18th c Robe a la Turque. Not for 2012, but I've finally started it!
-18th c quilted petticoat. Completed!
-1780s-style red wool Riding Habit. Started, but not yet finished.
-18th c red wool cloak. Nope, not yet.
-a Victorian waistcoat for my dad for Dickens. Nope, but I'll do it this year!
-18th c mitts. Nope.
-Regency corset. I didn't get into the CosCol class last year. We'll see if I can manage one on my own before this year's CosCol.
-Regency day dress. Nope.
-Regency overgown. Nope.

Overall, not too bad.

I think I want to line the habit. And possibly the waistcoat, too. (The waistcoat is ivory worsted wool on the outside, and will be flatlined with cotton twill, like the habit bodice.) I will also be using the same fabrics as the riding habit to make an 18th c-infused modern winter jacket.


The question is, do I use habotai, crepe de chine, charmeuse, or something entirely different?

To line, or flat-line? I really want to flat-line it, because, frankly, I don't care if you can see the serging and seams on the inside of the bodice, and that will make it easier to (hopefully) take in in the future. I know the period thing to do would be to line it, though. And I don't know how to go about doing the historical sleeve setting method (which I have decided to do with this project) without having a lining in which to sandwich the sleeve heads.

Any advice?



Oh, and I've decided to cut the skirts separately. Mostly because I didn't feel like waiting around for more responses to my last post before cutting out the fabric. And it would make the patterning process longer. :)

I sewed the two skirt panels together, and did all my pleats at the waist for the riding habit skirt. And then I put it on Antoinette over the bum pad and quilted petticoat. Success! The wool falls nicely, and the underthings fill it out quite well. I'm probably going to have to wait to get to Joanns and get tapes for the waist, unless I want to spend more money and get them at the more expensive fabric store next to my work. I'll try to get some pics up by the end of the weekend, but I work and have shows tomorrow and Saturday, which doesn't leave much time for sewing.

Speaking of which, though, have I mentioned lately how much I am loving my new job? In case I haven't, it's wonderful! I work at a sewing and vac store/repair place, and in the 1.5 months that I've been there, I have already learned soo much. Which means I'm getting better at selling things, too, which leads to more commission for me! Now I just have to control my spending and stop dreaming about owning one of the big Brother embroidery machines. :)

Oh, and in other news, the stockings I ordered from Sock Dreams got here already! I'm going to have to order more now. The ones I got fit nicely, and the red color is great, (I just wish they were clocked!) though I think I'm going to be in need of garters. I love the free shipping, too!