Diary of a Costumer

The pattern test 18th c jacket is coming along pretty well, but I totally didn't realize there would be So. Much. Handsewing. Like, I have gotten way too used to Victorian and how easy it is to make everything (well, until you start to trim it at least). I'm machine sewing this bodice anywhere the pattern tells me to just backstitch, like the lining, but it's handsewn everywhere else, aka most of the bodice seams. 

I tried it on yesterday for the first time since it was just a lining mockup, and it fits mostly well. The straps are somehow now way too long, so I have to shorten them by about 1", and the neckline was a little too high, so I've already unpicked that, and I will have to cut it down a little and re-sew the lining to the outer. The hem of the jacket skirt is pressed into place, but not yet sewn. I'm hoping I can maybe get all that fixed by tomorrow?

I tried on my initial sleeve mockup with the bodice try on yesterday, not sewn together, but just to see where it fits. It's definitely too short in the sleeve head right at the inner seam. I think I'm going to do another mockup with 1" of height added there, and that should be good. Then I have to cut out the sleeves of the actual fabric, and keep my fingers crossed that it will leave me with enough fabric left to make a basic petticoat. I wish I had enough for a ruffled petticoat, but unfortunately this is a discontinued Ikea duvet. I may have to go searching on ebay, because I really would like a ruffle.

I was wrong when I posted last week about what I thought I had already accomplished on the Fairy Godmother bodices. I had only done the day bodice neckline and part of the hem, and nothing else. Whoops. But last night, I finished the day bodice hem and started on the evening bodice hem, and I'm hoping to finish all that handsewing today. I still haven't tested the evening sleeve mockup either. 

Honestly, I didn't wind up with much sewing time at all this weekend, because I had a lot of house and yardwork to do. The fascia on three corners of my house has started to rot (or two are rotten, one the paint has been peeling on), and I talked to a handyman on Saturday, and he suggested what I could do to protect/fix it, at least for now. So Saturday, I sanded down the fascia in those areas, got rid of the soft wood, and put Minwax wood hardener on them. I also took down all the Christmas lights, and cleaned my front gutter. And had the last performance of my show in the evening. Then yesterday, I put wood filler over all the areas that needed it on the fascia, and managed to clear out about half of a huge shrub that ran the entire length and width of the side of my house, and has been preventing me from doing any maintenance over there at all, including cleaning my gutter. I'm hoping that I can get the rest of it out before more rain comes and before spider season comes, but I filled up my yard waste bin for this week, so it will have to wait till there's more room. And then I went to Applebees and (finally) saw the new How to Train Your Dragon, which left very little time for sewing. 

What little sewing I did do this weekend was actually mostly spent on altering my 18th c court gown. I haven't worn it since CoCo 2014, because a) there's not much that calls for an 18th c court gown, and b) it's so large that I would have to get dressed at the venue. But luckily, there is going to be an Outlander-themed 18th c ball this Saturday at a country club with dressing rooms! And also luckily, I pulled it out a week ahead of time to make sure that it still fit. Because... it didn't. Although I was eventually able to lace my stays tightly enough to get it closed, it was so tight that I had a minor panic attack when I tried to get out of it (the hooks and eyes refused to unhook, and I wound up literally removing three of the hooks with my seam ripper to get out of it). It was much more comfortable when it opened up to about 2.5" or so at the bust (the waist still fits, oddly enough). Luckily, it's the 18th c, so I decided I would just add a stomacher to make it work, and also luckily, I pretty much had just enough fabric left to make one. So Friday and Saturday's little bit of sewing time was spent making a boned stomacher with four frilly bows, which will pin in to the bodice to close it. Success! Now all I'll have to do is press the whole gown, and figure out my hair (my wig is way too uncomfortable to wear again). 

Here's a link to my instagram to see pictures of the court gown alterations: www.instagram.com/p/BuhPRWfAXzZ/

Thankfully, my evenings this week are fairly open, so I think I should be able to both a) go to the gym multiple times, and b) knock out a bunch on the Fairy Godmother bodices. Though at this point, I don't think there's enough time left to squeeze in the Daniel Deronda riding habit before VicFest, too!

I finished my pocket! I somehow timed it perfectly, and finished it within five minutes of the end of rehearsal. But now that means I have to figure out what I can take for handsewing tomorrow night. I guess it's time to figure out where I stashed the handsewn 1860s dress project. Though I guess I could finagle bringing my corset pattern and fabrics to cut, since there is a table in the back of the rehearsal studio.

Anyway, here's a pic. I'm quite pleased with it, since as you know, I never like to make things fully handsewn.

I'm three flowers away from finishing the embroidery on the pocket! Though I think I might want to add veins to a couple more of the leaves as well - I haven't decided. Then I have to figure out the proper way to put it together, preferrably by hand so that I can do it at rehearsal next week. I don't know what happened to the instructions, though, since the class was so long ago! catherinejs, I think you taught this class - anything I should know?

And then I figure if I haven't gotten to handsewing on the turquoise dress by Tues evening, maybe I'll go back to another CoCo class, and pull out the fully handsewn 1860s dress project from 2014 (I think?). I think I got the bodice mostly together, but I can't remember if I started on the sleeves, and I don't think I've even cut out the skirt pieces yet. It would be great to get more done on it though. It would also amuse me, at least a little, since Emma Cross was one of the teachers of that class, and her brother is in the show I'm doing. 

On Saturday, we had a small farewell 18th picnic for theladysarah at Discovery Park, near my house. Although it said it was supposedly 80 degrees, we found a lovely shady spot, and there was a constant cool breeze coming off the Sound, so it felt pretty perfect. She baked delicious bread and apple dumplings, and we also had chicken, fruit, macarons, and lots of pink lemonade. Naturally, we went all out and dragged table, chairs, china, and crystal into the park, and everything looked absolutely scrumptious! That said, the next time we do an event here, I need a wagon. You have to park so far away from the meadow!

Here are a few pictures.






I also worked a bit more on Rapunzel this weekend. At this point, the bodice just needs sleeves and to have the "blouse" front panel sewn in, and the skirt just needs to have the lace put on the last 2/5th of the hem. I wound up redoing a lot of the lace on the bodice, because I realized that A) Rapunzel has pink lace at the bottom of the bodice, not white, and B), on the back of Rapunzel's bodice, the lace is faux-chemise trim, not bodice trim. So I did a fair bit of ripping out, but luckily the bulk of it was larger whip stitches, so it wasn't that terrible to redo. The skirt will be finished tonight, and I may also be able to start on the sleeves. 

My BF's 18th c suit has had two showings already! I worked nonstop all Saturday making the breeches and putting in the coat lining. It certainly would have been nice to have known before I drafted the breeches pattern that there is actually a Simplicity pattern for drop-front breeches. And apparently, I am good enough at drafting patterns now that my back piece came out to within 1cm or less on all sides of the Simplicity pattern (though after actually fitting them to him, I wound up taking them in a ton anyway). Sean helped by making all the covered buttons and sewing them all on. There's a lot of buttons on this suit!

Anyway, we made it to my friend's party on Saturday night (1.5hrs late). The jacket had no cuffs, the breeches cuffs were missing two buttons each, and the jacket lining was loose at the hem. But still quite decent. I wore Jane, and we made quite an entrance!

Naturally, when we got home, all prepared to sew the cuffs and lining, the power was out. So this morning, I spent another 1.5 hrs or so making the cuffs (which for some reason really confused me) and machine basting the lining in, while the bf made breakfast and fixed and finished his breeches buttons. I wore my curtain-along pet en l'air from last year, and we got to the event less than 30 mins late!

The event consisted of a German-style luncheon in an old-looking pub (playing 1990s music) in Pioneer Square, and chit-chatting with other SITU members. The food was surprisingly delicious! Afterwards, the bf and I wandered around the Pioneer Square area, went in some shops, and had a photo shoot. One antique store clerk even asked us to take pictures in some antique chairs and email him the results.

Here's a small sample. Go to my FB page for the rest. I hope to have all the pics there by tomorrow night.

I'm alive, just swamped. Somehow I got it into my mind to make my boyfriend an 18th c outfit in a little over a week. Somehow he got it into his mind that instead of a nice plain wool suit, he wanted a highly decorated ensemble. He has even decided to go whole hog and rush ship a pair of Fugawees fire the outfit.

At least I talked him into trim instead of embroidery?

This is where I am now: jacket needs cuffs, pockets are half done, buttons, and lining. I think I'm going to skip the buttonholes, because who's going to see them anyway? The waistcoat is cut out and serged, with the first seams pinned and ready to be sewn. Breeches are not even patterned yet, and if course, he wants the h/a kind, even though I told him they'll probably be uncomfortable. Oh, and he's wearing this all for the first time on Saturday night.

Here's a pic of the back all splayed out on Antoinette.

Sooo... I thought the court gown project was done. But then I actually put it on yesterday, and found out it wasn't. However, it is now. I wound up taking in the center back of the bodice towards the bottom (up to 3" in at the bottom) because it was totally duck-tailing. I also added hooks to make the bodice stay down with the skirt, and I moved the bar on my skirt fastening in about 1.5". But it's all set now, so here are pictures!






And then just because I could, I wore my feathers and tiara around the house for at least a half hour. I purchased a wig to use as a base today, so it should be here sometime this week.

I finished the underskirt today, which means the court gown is done. Or at least, it is if you count the engageantes as a whole separate project. Which apparently I am. I'm a little over halfway done with the last three engageante layers. They should be done tomorrow morning.

I also took in an old swimsuit (which I had never worn). I needed one for my CA trip next week, but don't want to go out and spend money when I'm unemployed. So I took the mumsy tankini top that I had from probably at least 3-4 years ago, took the side seams in about 1", moved the elastic band underneath the bust up about 1", and ruched the sides. Now it's quite a bit cuter, and fits way better. Maybe I'll actually wear it!

Here's a couple pics of the court gown. How the heck am I gonna get this to CosCol?!

This morning, I finished two more layers for the engageantes, meaning I'm halfway through with them! For the rest of the day, though, I worked on trimming. I trimmed the edges of my sleeves, which means that all the bodice needs are for the bows and engageantes to be tacked on. I also added a lot of trimming to the overskirt. I attached the same trim from the sleeves to the front edges of the overskirt, sewed on all six of my embroideries, and sewed the silver metallic lace around two of the embroideries so far. Besides the rest of the lace, I just need to snake the pink ruching (edged with more of the lace) through the embroideries. And maybe add some beads. And do the underskirt trimming. And hem everything. My goal is to have this whole costume done July 1st. Pictures of everything are below - please ignore the fact that Antoinette totally can't fit my bodices:




And thank goodness I had never gotten into Game of Thrones before now. Because watching all these episodes is providing plenty of costume drama time while sewing on this project. I'm now almost halfway into Season 3, and I started this project on episode 4 of season 1.