Is it supposed to fit smoothly into the armscye, or is it supposed to be gathered? If smooth, then you have too much ease over the sleeve head, and need to reduce that. You need a maximum of 1" ease over the sleeve head, in a wool coat. Less on things like cotton weave with little or no give in them, and tightly woven silks. Measure the armscye sleeve line and add a maximum of 3/4" to this to give you the sleeve head seamline measurement. I find a 'bendy curve' useful for doing this.
I'd also add a little ease to the sleeve width as it seems to be pulling round the shoulder point and bicep.
I'd make up a sleeve on the pattern you have, reducing the ease over the sleeve head to about 3/4", baste it into the armscye and then slit it from elbow to shoulder seam. Let it settle and measure the gap. This will tell you the MINIMUM ease you need to add. I always add a quarter inch more to be safe and comfortable. To add the ease without adding to the sleeve head again, slash the pattern from sleeve head to elbow, just to the seam line. Clip from the outside almost to the seam line, leaving a 'hinge'. Do the same across the pattern at the under arm line. Now spread it out on another sheet of paper, and smoosh the pattern out, opening up a diamond shaped hole in the middle the width of your required additional ease plus a bit. Tape the pattern down to the paper round the hole and true up the seams. Make up another toile sleeve to test fit, and refine this if you need to.
You can do this with any pattern, even a two piece, as most of the additional ease round the bicep will need to go into the upper sleeve.
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branchandroot
no subject
Date: 2011-10-12 06:53 am (UTC)I'd also add a little ease to the sleeve width as it seems to be pulling round the shoulder point and bicep.
I'd make up a sleeve on the pattern you have, reducing the ease over the sleeve head to about 3/4", baste it into the armscye and then slit it from elbow to shoulder seam. Let it settle and measure the gap. This will tell you the MINIMUM ease you need to add. I always add a quarter inch more to be safe and comfortable. To add the ease without adding to the sleeve head again, slash the pattern from sleeve head to elbow, just to the seam line. Clip from the outside almost to the seam line, leaving a 'hinge'. Do the same across the pattern at the under arm line. Now spread it out on another sheet of paper, and smoosh the pattern out, opening up a diamond shaped hole in the middle the width of your required additional ease plus a bit. Tape the pattern down to the paper round the hole and true up the seams. Make up another toile sleeve to test fit, and refine this if you need to.
You can do this with any pattern, even a two piece, as most of the additional ease round the bicep will need to go into the upper sleeve.
Hope this helps, and isn't too teachery!