theladyrebecca: (Default)
 I was determined to finish the pelisse last night. I only had about an hour to work on it during the day, but when I came home from seeing Sister Act last night, I went straight into the sewing room to finish. 

I did a machined hem, with the cotton batting inside the bottom inch. I did two rows of stitching higher on the hem, too, to represent where a second padded row should be, but since it's not actually padded, it doesn't really show up. Maybe that's something I'll change in the future, but I doubt it. I also added my tassel/button trim at the CB, inspired by the extant one.

And here it is:

theladyrebecca: (Default)
I got out of rehearsal early tonight, so I was able to finish all the closures on the pelisse. This means I just have the hem, buttons/buttonholes on the wrist straps, and sewing a few tassels onto the back of the belt. I'm hopeful that I can get at least a little of that done tomorrow, though I do have to work and go grocery shopping (finally), and I'm seeing a show tomorrow evening. 

The reason why I haven't had a chance to start the hem yet (besides work and rehearsal) is that I want to pad it like I've done the CF edge, the collar, and the sleeve bands. So I need to have the time to cut out the batting. There is a possibility, though, that in doing the padded hem, I might be able to just do the whole thing by machine, which would obviously be a total timesaver. I guess I'll find out tomorrow. 

I really want to be able to move on to trimming the turquoise gown this weekend. I have rehearsal in the morning/early afternoon, and then I'm ushering a show in the evening, but I should have a few hours later in the afternoon, and I have all of Sunday to sew. No sewing is going to happen Mon-Thurs, though, because I have tech rehearsals. 
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I got about 3/4 of the hooks and eyes attached, of those that I already had. And I stitched closed the lower front of the pelisse. But unfortunately, that was all I had time for today. 

I'm hoping to be able to swing through Joanns on my way home tomorrow, but since I also have to go to the grocery store, that likely won't leave time for sewing. It's tempting to put both errands off till Friday, and come home and do my hem instead, since that's the last "big" part of the pelisse left. I just want to finish it and move on to trimming the turquoise gown!
theladyrebecca: (Default)
Welp. Didn't finish the pelisse. I only had a few hours of sewing time today, and at least two of that was spent just on the belt, since I had to make all the piping for it as well. I did get all the facings tacked down as well, and I figured out where I want the hem. 

I also decided that I will sew the pelisse closed until just below the hip, and then use hooks and eyes for the top of the skirt and the bodice. I only have half as many as I need right now, so Wed, I'll be running to Joanns for the rest of those and for the buttons for the wrist straps, but hopefully I'll be able to sew the nine that I do have tomorrow. I also plan to close up the bottom front tomorrow. I doubt I'll get to the hem, since I only have about 45 mins between work and rehearsal tomorrow afternoon. 

Does anyone have any tips for getting old stitch lines out of silk taffeta, by the way? I had to redo my darts, since they came up way too high, and now I have stitch marks on the most prominent place on the pelisse. 

I don't have time to mess with Dreamwidth's images right now, but here's a link to a picture of it from yesterday on my instagram:

theladyrebecca: (Default)
The pelisse is nearing completion. I've worked on it a ton this weekend, and at this point, all I have left is the hem (or hem treatment, since I haven't decided if I'm going to do the puffed rows that are on my inspiration), stitching or tacking down the facings, making the belt, and finishing off the wrist bands with buttons and buttonholes. Hopefully I'll be able to do all that tomorrow, though I do also have to mow the lawn and hopefully take Lion to get his nails trimmed. 

Oh, and I also need to do the closures down the front, but I'm not quite sure what to do there. Were pelisses ever worn without a dress underneath? I'd really love to wear this with just a petticoat, since that is a) less to pack for CoCo, and b) less heat in Socal. Obviously, that means I would need closures all the way down the front. However, my inspiration pelisse has no visible closures. Would they have used hooks and eyes, and is there a good way to do that down the front of the skirt, where there won't be any tension? Or are there any other closure options anyone recommends?

Thanks for your advice!
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I used most of my brief time at home today quite wisely, and was able to cut out the mockup pieces for the bodice of the pelisse and sew them together. Mostly because I didn't actually have time to go grocery shopping, so that's been pushed to tomorrow. I'm still keeping my fingers crossed that I'm not called to rehearsal tomorrow, but I likely won't find out till the morning. If I'm not, I should be able to try the pelisse on, and see if I have to make any adjustments. If it fits right, then I may do a mockup of the lower sleeve, mostly just to check length. And then I can cut it all out in my silk!
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I wanted to start on the pelisse in the 1.5 hrs I had between work and rehearsal today, but first I had to put several hooks and eyes on skirts laying on my sewing table, then clear off the rest of the sewing table. Which naturally meant that after ironing the mockup fabric, I ran out of time. I have to go grocery shopping tomorrow afternoon, so there likely won't be time then either. But there's a possibility that I won't be called for rehearsal on Wed, which would be awesome, because then I could see a show a bunch of friends are in, and have a little time beforehand to sew. And this weekend I'll have a four-day weekend, so my goal is to sew for pretty much the entire time, and finish the whole pelisse. If I do, I think there's a chance I might get to the Elizabeth Swann dress before CoCo. 
theladyrebecca: (Default)
My 2016 Goals changed a few times over the course of the year, but this is what they were:

Navy blue swiss dot Regency - Done!
Black silk taffeta bustle ballgown - Done!
Child's Victorian Gown - Done!
Daniel Deronda Riding Habit - Still hasn't happened, and is no longer on my specific upcoming goals list.
1860s Fully Handsewn dress - Didn't even pick this up all year. Maybe someday, but probably not anytime soon.
Turquoise Silk Mid-19th c  Giant Ballgown - I kind of knew this was going to be a 2017 project, and sure enough, it will be.
Fur-trimmed bustle-era skating outfit - Coming up next; I've already started cutting pieces out.
Winter bustle gown - Almost done!
Super-secret Disney-related project - No longer super secret. This is the Snow White Designer Disney dress, and will be made for the CoCo pool party this year.

In June, I added an Elizabethan kirtle and Mary Poppins Jolly Holiday to the list, both of which I have since completed.

And here's picture proof of everything I made!

Click here for pictures )

I think that's everything. Overall, not a bad sewing year, though being unemployed for the first eight months of the year certainly helped in that, and as you can tell by my posts, my sewing has definitely slowed down since I started working in September! 
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I better do these recaps before I forget all the details!

There weren't too many classes I wanted to take on Friday, but I did have my limited, which was how to make a Regency tiara. It was a great class! We used lamp banding, wire, and a variety of beads and pearls to make our tiaras. I'm pretty happy with how mine came out, though I kind of wish that I had had a larger version of the smaller coral for the points of the tiara - I think the ones I wound up using look a little fakey.

Naturally, because I was taking a Regency tiara class, I had to wear my navy swiss dot Regency! It was nice and comfy, and I got lots of complements on my hat (and surprisingly, I don't think I even got any requests to take it off in classes!)

I did also take a couple lectures - [ profile] reine_de_coudre's "Because Few Taylors," which was really fascinating, and the lecture on 18th-early 20th c riding habits. It was nice being able to see the habit shirts, and some of the antique habits close up!

I didn't really take many pictures (this is kind of the story of this whole CoCo, it seems), but I'm so glad I caught the Star Wars group! You guys looked amazing!

Then on to the Social! I honestly think this was my favorite part of this year's CoCo. They sooo stepped it up from the disappointment that was last year. I loved the snacks, the photo background/props, and especially the games! It was nice that there was a performance aspect, too, but contortionists freak me out, so I didn't actually watch. Also, somehow I lucked out, because [ profile] fairegoddess was late coming down, and so we other children went off to find her and conveniently missed all the annoying speeches while we were gone! Being dressed as Victorian children was SO MUCH FUN. Seriously. We skipped around the room, played all the games, munched on cupcakes, and had fun in the photo studio (with our cupcakes, of course!). We even played Ring Around the Rosie. I was super happy with how my dress turned out, and I think the four of us looked adorable!

Here's a bunch of pictures, but I'm doing a separate post for my dress. ;)

And if the pictures weren't enough, here's a video of our Ring Around the Rosie:
theladyrebecca: (Default)
My boyfriend was home from work today, so he agreed to take lots of pictures of me in my new Regency stuff! Unfortunately, the sun was really coming from the wrong angle for good shots with nothing modern in the background (we did them all in my backyard), but we managed to get a few good ones!

A bunch of pictures under the cut! )

My bf was also good enough to help me fit the back of my bustle gown bodice mockup. I took in several seams, but I only had to recut the side back pieces - everything else fit! So now I have a working pattern with no changes that need to be made. I just hope that the final fits as well as this one. I'll start with cutting that one out tomorrow. 
theladyrebecca: (Default)
It's done! I had gotten most of the fabric on it by last night, and finished stitching all the edges earlier today. I was able to do most of the binding of the brim at rehearsal in my downtime, since we did our first full run tonight. And then I got to come home and do the fun part - decorating! I tried out a whole bunch of different trims on it, and found I liked this combo best. The black braided trim is leftover from my Tudor doublet bodice from 2010, the pink ribbon I think may have been a sash to some random cocktail dress (otherwise I have no clue where it came from), and the black ribbon wrapped up some housewarming gifts from Crate and Barrel! And then I had to add feathers and bling, of course :) The nice thing is that other than the buckram, all of this came from the stash.

Here's a whole bunch of pictures:

Detail shots - I tried to be really good, and while there is hot glue within the various rosettes, nothing is actually glued to the hat. :)

And this is what it will look like with the dress. If I had the world's longest neck, of course.
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I found buckram locally! That was definitely a relief. I thought there was no chance, but one the fabric stores in Seattle carries it for $5.50/yd, and no shipping cost! Luckily, I was up north of Seattle yesterday anyway, too, so I only had to drive about 30 mins out of my way, instead of around two hours round trip. It was worth it. I got five yards. :)

I cut out my pieces last night, and started assembling them. I decided to use two layers together, since a few people recommended that, though unfortunately, this buckram didn't seem to realy want to fuse to itself, so I basted around the edges.

At this point, the whole buckram frame is assembled, and I've wired the brim and around the bottom of the crown. Next I get to cut fabric! [ profile] mandie_rw's crazy hat colors are definitely rubbing off on me, because I've decided to use the little piece of orange silk leftover from my 1760s gown for the outside of this hat. The inside will be ivory silk (that for some reason I can't remember what it's leftover from!).

The hat frame

These are the fabrics for it

We also finally moved up the bar in my sewing room closet. We moved it so high that I can hang the black bustle gown skirt in it without bustling it up (which is good, since my pleats were already getting really crumpled). And all my Regency dresses are off the floor, too. I'm hoping that I can fit everything long in this closet, and use the guest room closet for the shorter things, so that we don't have to move that bar up as well.

Here's a pic of my 6'3" boyfriend with the closet. It's really tall now!
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I'm having such a hard time figuring out a pattern for the stovepipe bonnet. I've spent almost all my free time today on it, and it still looks weird. I'm not sure if that's because when they're undecorated, stovepipe bonnets just look really weird, or if it's because there's something actually wrong with it. And it looks even weirder on my head. Maybe I have proportions wrong?

Just to give an idea, here is a picture:

Dimensions are 23" circumference at base of crown, 18" at top of crown. The crown is 6.5" tall in the front, and 8" tall in the back. Brim is 3 5/8" at CF, and 2.25" where it ends towards the back. Has anyone made one of these before? I'm going completely off of pictures I've found of them online, which of course are all fully decorated. Why aren't there any tutorials out there for this kind of bonnet?
theladyrebecca: (Default)
Thank you all for your opinions! Between here an on facebook, the majority of people voted for puffs, so puffs it is! It wound up being a bit more hand-sewing than I expected, to get them to lay nicely, but I do really like how they look. Here are some pictures!

Detail pics.

Ryder (my bf's dog) decided he wanted to get involved in the pictures, too.

So here's a couple bonus pictures of Ryder!

I'd like to make a stovepipe bonnet for this outfit, but since I'll have to figure out how to make a pattern for one, I'll do that after I make the bustle ballgown bodice. I'm not sure what fabric I should use for that anyway, though - obviously swiss dot on a bonnet doesn't make any sense, but I also don't have any navy silk (or even faux silk) for one. Maybe a really random other color? I could probably find a white or off-white faux silk at Joanns...
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I finished the Regency dress! Or at least, I might have finished the Regency dress? I can't decide if I want to add trim to the hem or not. I've definitely decided against a ruffle, but I'm still thinking about a row of puffs about 3-4" up from the hem. What do you think?

That said, everything else with the dress is done. I finished the sleeves, hemmed it, and even finished the little buttoned strap that goes around the wrist. I've also decided I hate how it looks with the chemisette worn over the bodice, like in the inspiraton portrait. But I do quite like it underneath! That's part of my dilemma - I think that without the chemisette on, it looks best with no trim on the hem, but with the chemisette, the puffed trim balances it nicely.

theladyrebecca: (Default)
I got a ton of work done on the swiss dot dress yesterday. It's almost an actual dress now! I cut out the outer and lining pieces for the bodice, serged all the pieces (including for the skirts), and sewed everything together. Then I spent a couple hours attempting to fit the back of the bodice, and figure out where I needed to do the gathering channels to, and if I had too much fabric back there, now that I was working with thicker fabric (and I did - because I was gathering lining and bodice together, I wound up cutting off about 3/4" from each side, and folding over the edges at the CB an extra 1/2".) Then I pleated and gathered the skirt fabric to the bodice, made several eyelets for the drawstrings to come out of, and finished off all the edges for the neckline and for the drawstring casings on the back. I also pinned up a floor length hem, but I think I'm going to take it up another inch or so. I'm still waffling about hem length on this one.

Here's a pic. I kind of love the look of the Regency jumper. I have a feeling I'll have to make one of those at some point.

I also can't quite decide on sleeve shape, which is the next step. My inspiration has a loose-ish double puff sleeve, and the lower sleeve is out of frame. I'm not sure I'm loving the idea of a double puff though. Right now, I'm leaning towards a looser gathered top sleeve, with a little area of gathering on the outside, which then comes down to mid-hand, with a strap around the wrist. (Basically, it's one of the ones in both Costume in Detail and Jean Hunnisett). I'll probably make a mockup shortly, and decide if it's really the right shape for me.

Other than sleeves, I have the hem to do, plus any decorations I want to add. I was thinking about putting this navy blue crochet lace trim under the bust, and possibly around the hem, but I'm liking the way it looks now, so I think that's out. However, I'm still thinking I want a small ruffle at the hem, and I might do a row of poufs above the ruffle, since I still have a whole ton of the fabric left at this point. 
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I decided to start playing around with the regency dress. I spent over an hour looking at patterns in Jean Hunnisett and trying to figure out why the skirts seemed so weird, and how I was going to fit them on my fabric in the best method. Finally, I compared it to Janet Arnold, and realized that not only are the skirts in Janet Arnold just straight panels, but the two other regency dresses I've already made are also both straight panel skirts. So I cut out my skirt panels, as well as the ruffle I'm going to put around the hem. I also used one of the bodices in Jean Hunnisett as a base for my bodice, and blew it up on pattern paper. I'll cut it out as a mockup tomorrow, and see how it goes. I'd also like to be able to assemble all the skirt pieces tomorrow, though I'll probably wait to add the ruffle until I get the skirt attached to the bodice. 

2016 Goals

Jan. 1st, 2016 11:38 am
theladyrebecca: (Default)
So unfortunately, my goals really haven't changed much since the last time I wrote them down. I guess that's what happens when I sew basically nothing for the last 2+ months?

Navy blue swiss dot Regency (mid Feb possible deadline) - I already have the fabric, and had origainlly intended to make this for an event this weekend. Clearly, that didn't happen, and I'm not going to the event anyway, so I guess that works out. At this point, I'd like to have it finished by the Pride and Prejudice and Zombies movie event that [ profile] vanessa_lynne is hosting in Feb. This is my inspiration plate, and I'll be pairing it with the chemisette I made this summer. Hopefully the dress itself will be fairly simple.

Black silk taffeta bustle ballgown (mid March deadline) - I might make a day bodice too, if there's enough fabric. If I finish it in time, I'll be wearing this to the ball in Port Townsend in March. I had hoped to make a new corset before making this, but I think at this point, I'm out of time to do that, too. I'm basing it off of the turquoise dress in this plate:

Child's Victorian Gown (CoCo Meetup for next year. Care to join us?) I have the fabrics, and I'll be working on this one probably in late spring.

Daniel Deronda Riding Habit - I never got to this one last year, but I still have the fabric, and I'd still love to finish it for CoCo.

1860s Fully Handsewn dress - From the class I took in CoCo 2014. Maybe I'll actually finish it this year?

Turquoise Silk Mid-19th c  Giant Ballgown - I'm really excited to make this, even though it wouldn't be worn any earlier than March 2017. This will be my CoCo 2017 gala gown, and I already have 15 yds of silk!

Fur-trimmed bustle-era skating outfit -For the Little House party in Jan 2017.

Winter bustle gown - for Little House party in Jan 2017. Something along the lines of the one on the right:

Super-secret Disney-related project
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I was feeling depressed over work last night, so I didn't sew. I did try out the spiral boning in the Rapunzel corset, though. I'm almost positive that I'm going to use the spirals in the side seams. I'm thinking I'm going to use them in the side back seams, too. I tried them in the second-to-back seams, but with only one flat bone left in the CB seam, I felt like it didn't really have enough structure anymore. I may also try them in the side front seam, though again, I'm worried about structure. And I'm kind of feeling like I really can't tell how much bend I want/need until I put it on with the skirt. So I think the bodice is going to be put aside for now. Hopefully I'll have enough energy to start on embroidery tonight.

In attempting to get enough space on my sewing desk to set up my embroidery, I picked up the lace that has been sitting there for the chemisette, and figured I may as well get started on that, too. So this morning, I gathered up one of the pieces of lace. I'll do the other one tonight, and hopefully sew them to the chemisette. That way that mini project is completely done and can get put away. 
theladyrebecca: (Default)
I don't think I posted what all of my sewing plans are, now that CoCo drove a bunch of ideas into my head. So I'm going to put them here, because I swear I keep forgetting some of them!

1890s Plaid Walking Ensemble - organdy and horsehair are on their way to me to help with sleeves; blouse fabric still to be purchased. Skirt done, bodice started.

Rapunzel and Flynn Rider (Oct 28th deadline) - I think I have Rapunzel fabrics. I should probably check.

Navy blue swiss dot Regency (early Jan deadline) - The fabric is on its way to me. Hopefully this one will be simple. This is my inspiration plate. The chemisette just needs lace added to the shoulders (I picked some up on Sunday).

Black silk taffeta bustle ballgown (possibly early Dec deadline, or else March) - I might make a day bodice too, if there's enough fabric. I'm feeling particularly inspired by the turquoise dress in this plate:

Child's Victorian Gown (CoCo Meetup for next year. Care to join us?)I will be making this dress. I already have the white silk, and the salmon is on its way to me.

Daniel Deronda Riding Habit - I never got to this one last year, but I still have the fabric!

1860s Fully Handsewn dress - From the class I took CoCo 2014. Maybe I'll actually finish it this year?

Commission-wise, I don't know that the second Belle will ever happen, since I've given up on reminding the customer to send me their contract. I do have another customer who would like me to pattern/make some clothing based off of favorite pieces in her wardrobe. That will probably be coming in Sept.

Hopefully that's it, because that's all I can remember right now!

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