Diary of a Costumer

Amazingly enough, I accomplished all but one of my 2019 sewing goals. Naturally, that's the Daniel Deronda riding habit that has been on my list for I don't even know how long at this point. I would still really like to make it, and I do still have the fabric for it, but it's not in my immediate priorities list at the moment. 

So anyway, these are my current goals, which really only stretch through Costume College:

1) The white and burgundy velvet dress. I'm currently working on this one. The overskirt is done except for a hem and bustle tapes. The underskirt needs the velvet ribbon, which I had to reorder since I purchased about 40 yards too little (yeah, you heard me), and a hem. I started tweaking my bodice pattern last night, and hope to cut out a mockup of it tonight. I am also going to make an evening bodice for this, which may turn into my CoCo gala gown. 

2) 1830s Disney Villains Group for CoCo. I'm doing Governor Ratcliffe, and I already have my fabric and a Percy plush. I won't be working on it until after the Victorian Festival in March, though. 

3) If I finish the velvet dress in plenty of time before VicFest, I'm going to do a light blue cotton Tissot-style bustle dress, definitely a day bodice, but possibly an evening bodice, too, if I have enough fabric. If I don't have time before VicFest for this, then I may actually try to squeak the riding habit in there instead, since I don't have to spend all the trimming time on that. 

4) If I finish all that in time plenty of time before CoCo, and if the stays that I won fit me well/are comfortable (I think those are coming to me soon), then I would like to make the 18th c working class outfit I had originally planned for 2018 or 19 and then shelved. I know for certain if I have to build new stays, then there is not time for this, but if not, then maybe. Though since I haven't made an 18th c bodice since like 2014, I feel like I'm going to have to relearn how to do everything. 

And yeah, that's it. I don't want to stress myself out with anything, and I hope to be in two more shows (besides the one I'm in) before CoCo, plus I should be focusing on growing my singing business, so I don't want my plans to be too ambitious. In fact, if all I can get done is the velvet dress and the 1830s dress, I think I will be pretty content. 

Costume College was wonderful, as usual. I really didn't take that many classes this year at all, which was actually kind of nice, as it left more time for socializing. And yet, I still wish I had had more time to see everyone and do everything! I will (hopefully) do wrap-up posts with pictures of what I wore when, and details on the classes I took, and what I purchased, etc. But for now, since it's all mulling around in my mind, I want to get down in writing what I hope to accomplish for the next year. 

2018-19 is hopefully going to be a year of filling in gaps and using up stash. There's just a few styles I'm missing in my costuming, most of which I would like to remedy. And since I literally bought one piece of fabric in the fabric district (yesterday's shopping trip was pretty frustrating, to be honest), pretty much everything is either going to have to come from my stash or be able to be sourced locally, which is a little scary. And the other scary part is that at this point, I have only one completely concrete plan, which is very unlike me, and it's actually a plan that has been pushed off from year to year, which I'm determined to finally make this year. 

What I'd like to make:

-An Elizabethan ruff. I took the ruff class on Sunday, and it was so good. Em Bee gave me half a yard of linen yesterday (he is so nice!), and I'm going to attempt to make this before the Ren Faire on Saturday. 

-An 18th c working class outfit, with ankle-length skirt, probably some sort of short jacket, apron, fichu, cap, possibly hat, all in different colors and patterns. I also want to make the new American Duchess stays pattern for this, since both of my existing stays are not very comfortable. 


-An s-bend corset. Ideally, I'd love to make the Edwardian dress I didn't get to this last year to go over it, but I'd still have to source the velvet ribbon, so I'm not sure that's going to happen. 

-A cotton 1840s dress. Something like one of these. 


-The blue riding habit from Daniel Deronda. Yes, I'm finally going to get to this. It's been on my list for how many years? We're going to do a Daniel Deronda group for Friday during the day next year, which means this will actually get done, since I love group projects. 


-A Disney Bustle Gown for Friday night next year. I'm almost positive I'm going to do the Fairy Godmother, based on this extant dress, but turning the back tails into a giant hood. I'm fairly certain I purchased enough blue silk for this last year, but I couldn't find any pink silk in the fabric district, so that may be the only thing that prevents me. Or I'll use poly, since it's just the accent color. Or maybe I'll cut up my court gown petticoat, since I doubt I'll ever wear that again. 


-For the gala, I think I want to do a natural form bustle gown. I have never done natural form, but the problem is that I'm still not a fan of most of it, especially for evening-wear. This plan might very well change, as I didn't find any good fabrics for this in the fabric district yesterday. 


-A hot pink and pink plaid bustle gown. I might do this as a natural form instead of the gala, because I seem to prefer the natural form day-wear, though if I can make this color combo work for the gala, then that may be another option. I picked up the pink plaid last year, and found a solid pink (dupioni, but with very little slubbing) yesterday in the fabric district. 


So basically, I'm doing a whole bunch of bustle gowns next year! 

I swear, every time I look at Dreamwidth, a week has passed. I really don't know how that's happening, though I also don't know how we're already halfway through November. 

I finished the commission on Friday, and it has been picked up, so now I don't have to worry about that, which is certainly a nice feeling. It's maybe not so nice when I look at my finances and realize the money from the commission has been helping to keep me afloat, instead of going into a save-for-Europe/later bonus fund. Oh well.... 

Here's a pic. It wasn't my design - I was reproducing an old jacket from the 90s. 


Anyway, now I get to sew for me! I wanted my first project to be fairly quick, no stress, and something small that I could take with me to sew at rehearsals. So I pulled out my new Simplicity Disney stuffed animals pattern, and I'm making Thumper. I think I've got the body a little more than half done at this point. I'm hoping I can do a tiny bit more today before rehearsal. 

Here's what he looks like so far:


This is also my filler project before my coat lining gets here, because my next project is going to be a winter coat. I guess I should probably mock that up... 

After I finish that, I'm not positive what will come next. I want an S-bend corset, so possibly that. But I'm so far behind in my sewing because of the commission that I really should be getting on with my gala dress or something, which doesn't need the corset (that's for an Edwardian I want to make). But I haven't finalized what I'm actually making for the gala yet - all I know is that it will be yellow and 1890s. Or I could go back to the stripey 1880s bustle I was working on, but that was being a pain before which was why I shelved it. Or I could do the plaid 1830s dress I want to make, which would probably be the easiest choice. Fitting just seems like such a pain right now. Maybe once we open and I have more time to think and do things I'll figure this all out. 

Since I feel like so many plans are swimming around in my head, I'm putting them down here so I can reference them for later.

Mary Poppins Jolly Holiday - due by mid-Oct
1950s Villains dress - due by end of Oct
1876 corset - due as soon as possible, so I can start bustle gowns
1876 green wool fur-trimmed dress - due by Jan for Little House Party
1870s black wool fur-trimmed skating dress - due by Jan for Little House Party
1870s paletot (or whatever they were called at this point) - due by Jan for Little House Party
1860s corset - hopefully due by late Jan, so I can start gala gown
1860s giant turquoise ballgown - hopefully due by mid-March, in case the Port Townsend Victorian Festival happens after all
Snow White couture gown for group project - due by CoCo
Elizabeth Swan burgundy 17th c gown for Keira Knopely group - due by CoCo


And maybe if I manage to get all that done, I can make new 18th c stays and the Daniel Deronda riding habit, like I wanted to before. But maybe it's because of the corsets, but this feels like a lot! 

So unfortunately, my goals really haven't changed much since the last time I wrote them down. I guess that's what happens when I sew basically nothing for the last 2+ months?


Navy blue swiss dot Regency (mid Feb possible deadline) - I already have the fabric, and had origainlly intended to make this for an event this weekend. Clearly, that didn't happen, and I'm not going to the event anyway, so I guess that works out. At this point, I'd like to have it finished by the Pride and Prejudice and Zombies movie event that vanessa_lynne is hosting in Feb. This is my inspiration plate, and I'll be pairing it with the chemisette I made this summer. Hopefully the dress itself will be fairly simple.


Black silk taffeta bustle ballgown (mid March deadline) - I might make a day bodice too, if there's enough fabric. If I finish it in time, I'll be wearing this to the ball in Port Townsend in March. I had hoped to make a new corset before making this, but I think at this point, I'm out of time to do that, too. I'm basing it off of the turquoise dress in this plate:


Child's Victorian Gown (CoCo Meetup for next year. Care to join us?) I have the fabrics, and I'll be working on this one probably in late spring.


Daniel Deronda Riding Habit - I never got to this one last year, but I still have the fabric, and I'd still love to finish it for CoCo.


1860s Fully Handsewn dress - From the class I took in CoCo 2014. Maybe I'll actually finish it this year?

Turquoise Silk Mid-19th c  Giant Ballgown - I'm really excited to make this, even though it wouldn't be worn any earlier than March 2017. This will be my CoCo 2017 gala gown, and I already have 15 yds of silk!


Fur-trimmed bustle-era skating outfit -For the Little House party in Jan 2017.


Winter bustle gown - for Little House party in Jan 2017. Something along the lines of the one on the right:


Super-secret Disney-related project

I don't think I posted what all of my sewing plans are, now that CoCo drove a bunch of ideas into my head. So I'm going to put them here, because I swear I keep forgetting some of them!

1890s Plaid Walking Ensemble - organdy and horsehair are on their way to me to help with sleeves; blouse fabric still to be purchased. Skirt done, bodice started.

Rapunzel and Flynn Rider (Oct 28th deadline) - I think I have Rapunzel fabrics. I should probably check.

Navy blue swiss dot Regency (early Jan deadline) - The fabric is on its way to me. Hopefully this one will be simple. This is my inspiration plate. The chemisette just needs lace added to the shoulders (I picked some up on Sunday).


Black silk taffeta bustle ballgown (possibly early Dec deadline, or else March) - I might make a day bodice too, if there's enough fabric. I'm feeling particularly inspired by the turquoise dress in this plate:


Child's Victorian Gown (CoCo Meetup for next year. Care to join us?)I will be making this dress. I already have the white silk, and the salmon is on its way to me.


Daniel Deronda Riding Habit - I never got to this one last year, but I still have the fabric!

1860s Fully Handsewn dress - From the class I took CoCo 2014. Maybe I'll actually finish it this year?


Commission-wise, I don't know that the second Belle will ever happen, since I've given up on reminding the customer to send me their contract. I do have another customer who would like me to pattern/make some clothing based off of favorite pieces in her wardrobe. That will probably be coming in Sept.


Hopefully that's it, because that's all I can remember right now!

So now that CosCol is over, it's time to finish unpacking and start on new projects.

I was able to find the fabrics I needed for the Rapunzel commission in the fabric district, so that is first on the docket. Yesterday, I dye tested the white brocade I got, and it seemed to come out okay. I'll probably start testing the embroidery this afternoon, if I can clear out space around my sewing machine.

I've also been approved to be a pattern tester for Laughing Moon's new men's mid-Victorian vest. That means my dad will finally get his vest made! I might wind up making one for the bf at some point, too.

And I've planned a Regency tea for mid-Sept, so if I have time after those two projects, I might try to make my bf a Regency outfit.

Since I've now completed the customary year in review, that means it's time to post the goals for 2013!

1. Finish the riding habit. It's at least about half-way done at this point. The skirts of the bodice need to be attached, I need to figure out how to do the huge collar, the sleeves, and all the trimming.

2. The Robe a la Turque. The petticoat is done. I'm currently working on the gown - the bodice and skirt are cut out.

3. 18th c red cloak. I already have the fabric.

4. 17th c gown. Based on this portrait. I'm in the process of buying fabric - I'm actually springing for silk taffeta!

5. Regency corset. I wanted to take the class at CosCol last year but was waitlisted. Maybe I'll get in this year?

6. Regency day dress. I bought swiss dot last year. I'm just waiting to make the corset first.

7. Regency overgown. Again, I already have the fabric.

8. Edwardian jacket for my mom. The mockup is done - I just need to actually make the jacket now.

9. Victorian waistcoat for my dad for Dickens next year.

10. 1950s cotton-printed dress to wear to Disneyland before CosCol.

11. Victorian button boots. I will probably make two pairs. I'm going to try making it from canvas first, and if that works out, then I'll spring for leather.

12. Possibly a pet en lair or caraco.

I think that's enough to be getting on with.

At this point, I have a very abstract idea of what I would like to make this year, which is probably way too long to actually accomplish. Luckily, very little of my goals actually have deadlines, so it really doesn't matter when they get made!

-1869 Pink Candy Striped Early Bustle Gown. I've already started the elliptical cage crinoline and the petticoat. At this point, I only have ideas for a day bodice, but I would eventually like to come up with an evening bodice as well. I will probably wind up wearing it at CosCol (of course, now that I write that, does anyone have any idea how to get a cage crinoline on an airplane?)

-a black knee-length skirt. I've realized I'm missing this important staple in my wardrobe, so I bought some black fabric and will be remedying this soon.

-Titanic gown. I'm going for not quite an evening gown, but probably in the realm of dinner dress for this one. I finally figured out the design a few days ago. I'll post the sketch at some point, most likely after I go fabric shopping. It's largely based on a blend of the yellow "deck dress" from the movie, and this Worth gown from the Met. I doubt I will be able to afford the GBACG Titanic event, so I would probably wind up wearing it to the tea at CosCol. Or maybe I'll host my own Titanic dinner.

-Teens era corset. Still not positive that I'll have time for this one, but I would really like to have the proper shape under the teens gown, so here's to hoping. I guess that means I should go work on my candy bustle.

-Ballgown bodice for my black and gold plaid Dickens dress. I started to draft out the pattern in September, but then the fish doublet commission came in, and I had to focus on Jane in time for Halloween, so that never got done.

-Late Victorian jacket for my mom, to match the walking skirt I made her this year. I ran out of time to make her one before the PEERS picnic, but luckily, it was too warm to wear one anyway.

-Late Victorian bathing suit. I want to wear it to CosCol this year, but unfortunately, the wool I bought from fabric.com for it is way too lightweight, so I have to return it and hope I can find some heavier wool somewhere.

-18th c Robe a la Turque. I've been wanting to make one of these since last May, I think. I was hoping to do it in 2011, but I just never had time.

-18th c quilted petticoat. This isn't the one I started hand-quilting last year. I don't know if I have the patience to ever finish that one. But I bought really pretty cream-colored pre-quilted fabric at Joanns last summer, so once I actually pull the fabric out, it should go together super quickly.

-1780s-style red wool Riding Habit. I haven't figured out the exact design yet, but since I bought the wool from the fabric.com sale, now I'll be able to make it.

-18th c red wool cloak. I honestly don't know why I want one, since I would never get any use out of it here. Hopefully, that will be a different story once I move up to Seattle in the spring.

-My dad has requested a Victorian waistcoat for Dickens for next year. It will be his Christmas present.

-18th c mitts. I have a bunch of small pieces of fabric from my one trip to FabMo last June, and I want to use it up by making a bunch of mitts and muffs.

-Regency corset. I'm really hoping they offer this as a class at CosCol, since I don't think I would have the gumption to start one on my own. But I know I want/need one.

-Regency day dress. There always seem to be all these regency events, and all I have to wear to them right now is my chemise a la reine, which just feels out of place.

-Regency overgown. I already have the fabric, but I think I want to wait until I have the regency corset to really start in on it.


So yeah. It's a lot. And I know I'll probably only accomplish half of it. But we'll see.