1890s sleeve supports?

[theladyrebecca]

I cut out all my bodice pieces for the 1890s bodice last night. I had enough fabric that I was actually able to pay attention to the plaid, so hopefully everything will match up when I go to actually sew them together! I started the flatlining on a few pieces, but then I had to go to bed. My goal is to finish flatlining and sew them together tonight. And then maybe tomorrow I'll take it with me to Joanns and figure out the sleeve fabric.

By the way, has anyone ever made sleeve supports for the 1890s? I know they're quite common for the 30s, but I've only come across a couple extant ones for the 90s, and both were wired instead of stuffed. I'd love to be able to use the 30s ones I just made, but I worry that they're a bit too soft, a bit too small, and that they don't go quite high enough on the bicep for 1890s sleeves... Any advice? 

Comments

[mrs_maupin]

Digging through my notes, I found references to sleeves being fully lined in tulle or muslin (1894).
Later references, copy-pasted from former notes :
On the 26th of January, 1896, La Mode Illustrée, pp. 30-31, says sleeves entirely lined with a stiff fabric are now a rarity (so they DID entirely line the sleeves before !). Sleeves should now only use a 20cm deep, 60cm long horsehair ruffle attached on the sleeve lining (between the lining and the fashion fabric), a little below the armhole, on the upper side of the arm only, not on the underside.
On March, 1st, 1896, they begin talking about "flat" sleeves, except for the very top of the sleeve. Or the sleeve can remain full, but with a vertical gathering thread running from shoulder to wrist and flattening the fullness. These two styles are still very new and the author isn't convinced they will last, though.
Long sleeves are "still" completely lined with starched muslin, just enough to prevent them from being too floppy.
All from La Mode Illustrée, so to be taken with a grain of salt, but it's a start.
Hope this helps !

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Thanks! That does help. It looks like I need to go find some horsehair!

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

And I now have horsehair, crinoline, and organdy coming my way. :)

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

No idea. But I'm glad you're doing this now. I'm about to embark on an 1890s suit with ridiculous sleeves in the near future and am going to totally piggyback on whatever info shows up in this post! ;p I actually just bought some poplin today for jacket lining and horsehair canvas so that I can be tailor-y. :)

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Yours sounds like it will be much more complicated than mine! I opted for the bodice look, hoping it would be a bit simpler.*fingers crossed*