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Okay, I know this is ridiculous early, but I think I have found my 2017 CoCo Gala gown. It's a painting of Isabel de Borbon y Borbon, by Vincente Palmaroli, from 1866.



Isn't it gorgeous?! I'll definitely need at least one additional ruffly petticoat to go over my cage, because that is a huge skirt. And that's got to be a 5 ft train, at least. I may be insane. I think besides the lace and the pleated ribbon (or is it pleated silk?) there is trim made out of gathered white organza with white ribbon over the center. I believe there is tightly gathered white organza underneath the blue pleated ribbon as well? (Otherwise it's white fur, but this dress seems a bit too springy for that.) And it looks like each of the lace ruffles on the skirt have a ruffle of turquoise organza underneath. The bertha seems so gauzy, but I think that may just be the painting style, because I don't feel like I've seen a lot of chiffon on berthas of this period. (Please let me know if you have!)

Here's a close-up detail of the bodice:


I wish there was a picture/painting out there of her with the train down - she's hiding so many details! Of course, I think the real question is, how many bazillion yards of silk taffeta am I going to need for this dress? Good think I'm planning two years in advance!

Edit: Yikes, after the world's quickest estimation, I think I need 13+ yards of fabric for this gown. If it's 60" wide, I think I could get away with 11 yds. And that's not including if I make all the pleated trim out of the actual fabric. 

Date: 2015-08-22 05:45 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] theladyrebecca.livejournal.com
Would the fine poly tulle look all wrong?

Date: 2015-08-22 06:08 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nuranar.livejournal.com
Whew... really not sure. Definitely not if it's blue/optic white; I can spot that *really* far away. It should match the lace, with a regular white, even slightly yellow. Silk lace, called "blonde" in the period, was very slightly off-white because it was the natural silk color. If the color was right, and it's delicate enough to gather the same way, I think it would work. Can you do a sample bit against a similar blue and take some pictures? Especially next to the lace you want to use, or a similar one? I think Samantha may have worked with silk net (I haven't) so she might be able to help with figuring it out.

Silk lace, looks like on a net foundation:
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/228135537349318473/
Not very clear, but the fluffy sleeves are identified as silk net:
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/228135537345769329/

This one shows what I mean about how the skirt is hanging. This is very, very expensive moire satin, and it falls in heavy-looking folds. Bonus - detail shots of the gorgeous silk lace, and the berthe which should also be silk net.
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/228135537345553695/

Date: 2015-08-22 07:17 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] theladyrebecca.livejournal.com
Ooh, I love that last pink one!

I will almost definitely be purchasing lace with a net base, but I'm sure it will be a poly base, because money. I'll probably buy the lace before the tulle, so I can match it, and if all else fails, I'll do what you said with the bias-cut organza, dyed to the right color if necessary.

Date: 2015-08-22 12:08 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nuranar.livejournal.com
Isn't it amazing?

Sounds like a plan!

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