(no subject)

[theladyrebecca]

I think I'm going to stick with the shape of bonnet that I posted yesterday, but it looks like the project is going to be on hold anyway. I'm sick of working with the crappy Joanns buckram, and really want to buy actual buckram for this and future hats. However, there are apparently no local sources for buckram, meaning I have to order it. Thanks to madamekat, I found a place that sells it quite cheaply, but the shipping costs as much as the buckram, so 5 yds would still come to $50. Hats by Leko, which a lot of people recommended, has a $60 minimum, so that's out. I'm waiting to hear back from Judith M Millinery about what the shipping charge will be, though their buckram is twice as expensive as the first place, so I doubt I'll go with it. I also found buckram on voguefabrics that seems promising (esp since they have $6 flat rate shipping), but there's no way to tell how heavy it is... So I feel kind of stuck. Without money coming in right now, I can't just go drop $50 on a hat. And it's either that or make do with the stupid Joanns stuff that crumples even if you put two layers together. *Sigh*

So it looks like I have no choice but to work on the ballgown bodice. It's honestly what I should be doing right now anyway, but I had been kind of looking forward to making a quick and pretty hat to finish off the Regency dress. I'm hoping to mostly use the same pattern as my cream and green bustle bodice I made in the fall. Part of me wants a button front, because that will make the two a little more different, but it seems pretty rare on ballgowns. So I might do a lace-up front again, since I don't want to have to mess with a back closure. I'm also hoping to make the neckline a little more off the shoulder, though of course, that means I have to deal with chemise showing, and less arm movement when dancing. Plus, the smaller sleeves would show more of my upper arms, which is definitely an area I prefer to have covered up. So who knows - maybe it will wind up being almost exactly the same. One thing I'm fairly sure on though, is that I don't want a pleated tail in back like that bodice has - I just want it to go to a nice sharp point, like on the fashion plate. I wish I could see the front of the dress in the plate, though. Then I wouldn't have to make all the rest of this up!

Anyway, that will have to wait till at least tomorrow afternoon. I had rehearsal tonight, and tomorrow morning I'm doing another costume portrait session, wearing my plaid 1890s this time.

Oh, and if anyone else has any buckram recommendations, please let me know! 

Comments

[ktlovely.livejournal.com]

So, this is weird, but I just read a blog post by an 18th century reenactor about buckram and how it's made. If you can get your hands on gum tragacanth (a quick search on Amazon shows that Tandy Leather sells it) you can stiffen your own fabric into buckram. In the 18c it was linen, but I daresay you could use cotton or maybe even add stiffener to existing buckram to help it out a bit.

If you do end up having to use thin or flimsy buckram, reinforcing it with extra millinery wire is one way to help it keep its shape a bit better, in addition to sort of 'quilting' two layers together. In the bonnet workshop I took from Lydia Fast, we used millinery wire in LOTS of places on the bonnets...around both the top and bottom of the crown and the edge of the brim at the very least, and there might have been a few more places that I'm not remembering too. And IIRC we did quilt two layers together for the sides of the crown, too. It sure was sturdy when we got done!

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

That's really interesting, about the gum tragacanth, but luckily I found some locally. I'm still planning on wiring in a few places though, since that's what I'm used to.

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

That's really interesting, about the gum tragacanth, but luckily I found some locally. I'm still planning on wiring in a few places though, since that's what I'm used to.

[kaesha-nikovana.livejournal.com]

I always buy from Judith M. I get the theater weight buckram, which is the heaviest you can buy. It comes rolled up in a cardboard tube, which is why shipping gets pricey pretty much everywhere.

If you're on a very tight budget, you can use plastic needlepoint canvas instead. You can find that at every craft store and sometimes Wal-Mart very cheaply. Just bear in mind that you'll definitely need to pad the edges where two pieces join, since they'll have pokey bits there. It has the added benefit of being able to survive a heavy rainstorm, which buckram will not.

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Is theatre weight the two-ply? I found the one ply locally, but I think I might try putting two layers together.

[kaesha-nikovana.livejournal.com]

Yep, it's two-ply.

[mandie-rw.livejournal.com]

How much buckram do you need? I'm getting close to the end of a roll but I might have some to spare. I buy the heavyweight from Judith M, and if you don't mind it folded up, shipping is waaaay cheaper in an envelope vs a tube.

Either way, don't use the crappy Joann's! It just doesn't hold up, and it would be so sad to put all that work into a hat that gets mashed if you look at it funny.

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Actually, I'm all set now! I was able to find some of the heavier weight stuff locally. I'm excited to get started!

Buckram

[michaela coy (from livejournal.com)]

You can always buy a refill kit from Timely Tresses; they have great buckram! It would come with all the wire and crinoline tape and everything. You may need to ask if you want to be more specific in the amounts; when I click on the two bonnets that are similar to yours, I don't see that option, but I've seen it for some of the other styles.

RE: Buckram

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

I'm all set now - I found a local store that carries it!

[chocolatepot.livejournal.com]

Yeah, I learned this one the hard way too. :( I've been basting two layers together so that I don't wastewhat I've bought, but real crown buckram would be so much better.