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[personal profile] theladyrebecca
Amy Galles was wonderful enough to trace off the De Gracieuce corset pattern for me, and blow it up, so I'm going to attempt this one to begin with, and hopefully it will work out! So far, I printed out her blown up pattern, and taped the pieces together to see what it would look like. I like the shape, but a) it's super tiny, and b) it's incredibly short-waisted. So I added 3.5" of length between the waist and the bottom of the bust, and I also added at least 1-2" of width to the various pieces. I taped together this new sized up pattern to see what it would look like, and I tried to pin it to Antoinette. Obviously, it looks weird because it's paper, but I feel like the gussets are particularly strange. The front-most bust gusset seems huge, and possibly because of this, it also makes the corset want to spring away from the "body" at bust-level under the armpit. Which seems weird. Hopefully I'm assembling the pieces right!

Nevertheless, I'm tempted to actually use my enlarged paper pattern to actually cut it out and assemble it in fabric, just to see how far off it is. I really want to try Luca's thing of making the body conform to the corset, not the other way around (I think that's what he said?). That's why I wanted a really distinct shape for this era.

I'm also going to attempt it with a 15" busk. It's possibly I need a 16", but that seems like it might be too long once I sit down, and I happen to have a 15" on hand already. I'm hoping to order boning in the next couple days, so that I can really get started on this. I got a sample of the Wissner plastic whalebone and the other German plastic boning from Farthingales, but none of it is quite what Luca recommended, so I'm waiting on a couple samples to come from Hallie Larkin, since hers is Wissner as well.

Here's the pattern. If anyone else wants to try it, I'm happy to share the pdf!


And this is what my weird paper version looks like. You can see the 3.5" of length I had to add!

Date: 2016-08-14 09:54 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] fairegoddess.livejournal.com
If the corset is both too small and too short, is there a reason you didn't blow up the whole pattern? I like to size it up until the waist measurement fits, then adjust the pattern as necessary. I'm surprised how often the scale stays close - the benefits of being both plus size and tall?

Date: 2016-08-14 02:25 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] theladyrebecca.livejournal.com
Normally, I would do something like that, bit on this one, I actually found that the length from the waist to the bottom of the corset, and from the bottom of the bust gussets to the top edge, would both probably work as is. I also didn't increase the bust gussets, and only increased the hip gussets by .5" in width. It also seemed like the back pieces, which are much wider than the front pieces, needed to have more width added to them than the front pieces.

But we'll see - I could have been entirely wrong!

Date: 2016-08-14 11:45 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] totchipanda.livejournal.com
I'm attempting this corset too, so I will be following this project keenly XD

Date: 2016-08-14 02:26 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] theladyrebecca.livejournal.com
Yay! We should just make a corset-along!

Date: 2016-08-14 03:06 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] totchipanda.livejournal.com
I'm in!! :D

Date: 2016-08-14 12:01 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] atherleisure.livejournal.com
When I tried to fit a paper mock-up of my ribbon corset on the dummy, it really did not work at all, but once I mocked it up, it was quite close on me, mostly being just a little too big.

ETA: I'd like to have a copy of the pattern. I need to do an 1870's corset sooner or later, though I'm sure it won't be before next spring based on my current sewing line-up.
Edited Date: 2016-08-14 01:15 pm (UTC)

Date: 2016-08-14 02:27 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] theladyrebecca.livejournal.com
Oh good, I hope that's true for this one, too.

When you mock up a corset, do you have to actually put the whole busk in?

And can you pm me your email for the pattern?

Date: 2016-08-14 09:32 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] theladyrebecca.livejournal.com
Oh good, I hope that's true for this one, too.

When you mock up a corset, do you have to actually put the whole busk in?

And can you pm me your email for the pattern?

Date: 2016-08-15 01:37 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] atherleisure.livejournal.com
I usually sew the center front closed for a mock-up. That way I don't have to deal with a busk, though I do have to deal with lacing the thing up while on my body. Then I put a couple of bones at the center front, either by making channels of the seam allowances or taping them to the corset with painters tape. (I've heard of using duct tape, but painters' tape is less sticky so I use it. Plus I always have it and am not sure we have any duct tape.)

I'll PM you with my email address. Thanks for offering to share.

Date: 2016-08-14 03:44 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] chocolatepot.livejournal.com
I would love to see the pdf! Looks very nice.

What did Luca recommend?

Date: 2016-08-14 07:41 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] theladyrebecca.livejournal.com
Can you pm or send me your email?

And he recommended 6x1.5mm Wissner for corsets, and 6x1mm for boning bodices.

Date: 2016-08-14 08:09 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] chocolatepot.livejournal.com
Oops, yes. It's aspiring.star at gmail.

That sounds like what I bought! I think. I'm not sure where it is right now to check on the thickness, but 6mm is the same width.

Date: 2016-08-14 08:10 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nuranar.livejournal.com
That "springing out" thing is exactly what my Kay one does, so I'd assume it's right! The other thing is to be careful with lengthening above the waist. Mine felt ridiculously small when I pulled it out, and I'm not short, but the length was just right. You have to accept the low bust point. It feels weird, especially when I'm used to stays compressing and lifting up more, but it's definitely the right line for the period.

Date: 2016-08-15 06:59 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] theladyrebecca.livejournal.com
This one is amazingly short. It's only 5.5" from the waist to the top of the corset at the CF, which would actually be an underbust corset on me!

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