CoCo Gala Plans

[theladyrebecca]

Okay, I know this is ridiculous early, but I think I have found my 2017 CoCo Gala gown. It's a painting of Isabel de Borbon y Borbon, by Vincente Palmaroli, from 1866.



Isn't it gorgeous?! I'll definitely need at least one additional ruffly petticoat to go over my cage, because that is a huge skirt. And that's got to be a 5 ft train, at least. I may be insane. I think besides the lace and the pleated ribbon (or is it pleated silk?) there is trim made out of gathered white organza with white ribbon over the center. I believe there is tightly gathered white organza underneath the blue pleated ribbon as well? (Otherwise it's white fur, but this dress seems a bit too springy for that.) And it looks like each of the lace ruffles on the skirt have a ruffle of turquoise organza underneath. The bertha seems so gauzy, but I think that may just be the painting style, because I don't feel like I've seen a lot of chiffon on berthas of this period. (Please let me know if you have!)

Here's a close-up detail of the bodice:


I wish there was a picture/painting out there of her with the train down - she's hiding so many details! Of course, I think the real question is, how many bazillion yards of silk taffeta am I going to need for this dress? Good think I'm planning two years in advance!

Edit: Yikes, after the world's quickest estimation, I think I need 13+ yards of fabric for this gown. If it's 60" wide, I think I could get away with 11 yds. And that's not including if I make all the pleated trim out of the actual fabric. 

Comments

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Ooh, I like the silk tulle idea. I've never looked into it before, so if it's really expensive, it probably won't work. Silk organza is quite affordable, and I have plenty of fray check if all else fails.

[nuranar.livejournal.com]

I'll bet it really is silk tulle! But also I think it's about $100/yd. Gulp. (And also super flammable, for some strange reason.) I think organza will work. You can also cut it on the bias; it will not fray then. BUT it stretches and expands like crazy, so it can be a little exciting to work with. :p

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Oh my gosh, silk tulle is that expensive?!? That's insane!

[nuranar.livejournal.com]

Oops, I lied! It's only $57/yd. :)

http://www.fabrics.net/Silk-Tulle-s/151.htm

Cotton net is about $30/yd; it's nice stuff, and definitely has its use for a tucker, but I don't think it's light enough to give the look you need for the trim application - both dense and light.

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Would the fine poly tulle look all wrong?

[nuranar.livejournal.com]

Whew... really not sure. Definitely not if it's blue/optic white; I can spot that *really* far away. It should match the lace, with a regular white, even slightly yellow. Silk lace, called "blonde" in the period, was very slightly off-white because it was the natural silk color. If the color was right, and it's delicate enough to gather the same way, I think it would work. Can you do a sample bit against a similar blue and take some pictures? Especially next to the lace you want to use, or a similar one? I think Samantha may have worked with silk net (I haven't) so she might be able to help with figuring it out.

Silk lace, looks like on a net foundation:
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/228135537349318473/
Not very clear, but the fluffy sleeves are identified as silk net:
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/228135537345769329/

This one shows what I mean about how the skirt is hanging. This is very, very expensive moire satin, and it falls in heavy-looking folds. Bonus - detail shots of the gorgeous silk lace, and the berthe which should also be silk net.
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/228135537345553695/

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Ooh, I love that last pink one!

I will almost definitely be purchasing lace with a net base, but I'm sure it will be a poly base, because money. I'll probably buy the lace before the tulle, so I can match it, and if all else fails, I'll do what you said with the bias-cut organza, dyed to the right color if necessary.

[nuranar.livejournal.com]

Isn't it amazing?

Sounds like a plan!

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

Dharma Trading has a cotton net that is out of stock right now, that is MUCH cheaper. Not sure how fine it is though. Waiting for it to come back in stock because I also want to use it for a gown c. 1870.

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

Good to know! Let me know how that works out once you get it.

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

That probably won't be for a while. I have MANY projects in line before that one. :p But maybe you could get a sample? The dots per inch makes it seem like it'd be fairly fine.

[theladyrebecca.livejournal.com]

This won't be for a while either (like, next year). I guess we'll have to see who will get there first!

[nuranar.livejournal.com]

I think that net has bigger holes than the English bobbinette. It does work for things where the large holes aren't a drawback.

[mala-14.livejournal.com]

You're probably right. I looked into it. The Dharma net has holes that are about 14 per inch. English cotton net seems to come in 10, 14, 18, and 24 holes per inch, so less fine than the nicer ones for sure. Isabel probably had the super fine stuff! ;p

[nuranar.livejournal.com]

Holes per inch - brilliant!

No question about that! And in silk, natch! No cotton for THAT lady, I'm sure. ;)